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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When it rains, it pours....I just installed a new rear 02 sensor, thinking that it would remove the CEL - wrong! I know the old sensor was bad because it fell out and was dragged for about 1/4 mile down a highway. Anyway, after installing the new sensor, the CEL remained on. I checked and am a 7 and 8 flash code, one of which could mean the evaporative cannister. Would a bad purge valve make the car hard to start when warm? I notice that I have to spin the starter for about 5-10 seconds before it'll catch, where normally it fires up almost instantaneously. Also, the fuel gauge has been acting funny, lately - it reads almost empty when I first start the vehicle, but will slowly rise to the true level, after about 5 minutes. Also, I notice quite a bit of pressure difference when I unscrew the gas cap - haven't determined whether it's air rushing in, or vapors rushing out. Finally, my water pump: this engine has about 50k miles on it and I noticed a slight leak coming from the bottom of the water pump. I thought it might have been a loose 12 mm bolt on the cover, but upon tightening it down, it's still leaking from what looks like the gasket that is under that front cover. The water pump is not leaking from the seal on the main shaft, and appears to provide a healthy flow rate of fluid. Is it possible to replace that gasket or does this mean I'll have to get a whole new water pump?
 

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Hi, Bob. Is it worth clamping the hose(s?) to the charcoal canister to see if that helps the starting? I think if the valve is stuck open or partly open, it effectively creates an induction leak.

You should be able to replace the gasket, part number 91 13 325. Or perhaps some rubbery gasket goo will do instead.
 

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Thanks Bill! I'll order a new gasket right now. Do you have a microfiche for these part no's or have you done this to your Aero already? I'm only leaking about a pint every 200 miles, but I don't want to take any chances: I've seen heads ruined on the old 8 valve 900's when leaks occur. I think the loss of pressure enables cavitation to develop around some of the jackets near the exhaust valves, resulting in small pin-holes through the aluminum. Don't know if this would be an issue on the 16-valve, 2.3 heads, but I'm not going to take any chances. I'll try the clamping trick, thanks.
 

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I've just had the o-ring replaced on my water pump, where the 'spout' goes intop the block.

I started 18 months ago using a litre every 6000m, until suddenly it went to a litre a week and then a litre every 2 days.

I had it done and a new pump fitted just for luck.

Andrew
 
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