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Discussion Starter #1
I've got Maptun Stg 3 on CSE 2.3T, and the boost gauge goes pretty much all the way to the end of the red zone normally, but in the last couple of days I only get boost to the middle/end of the yellow zone. At the same time I've noticed I've most likely got the dreaded heater matrix leak (water coming out the drain hole from the a/c) and I have had the low radiator level warning come on a couple of times when turning (tricky to spot as the steering wheel tends to block the view of the dash)

Is the ECU clever enough to notice the low rad level warning and back off boost or should I be looking for some other problem? (BTW There's no check engine lights and a new DI is fitted)

Matt
 

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Matt its been warmer lately have you had the air con on for the first time, this surely drains power and would also explain the water seen
 

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Water coming out of drain hole of A/C could be condensation? As Chris B said, it has been hotter last few days.
However if you are topping up rad/expansion tank then you probably do have a leak somewhere.

HTH
 

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I agree with TheFox that the water coming out of the A/C drain is normal, especially on warm, humid days. That's what it's for - to drain away the water that's condensed out of the air, leaving dry air to vent into the cabin.

However, the coolant loss and loss of boost are something that need to be fixed. Top up the coolant and see if it stays topped up. There are a number of possible causes of low boost. First to check is whether the boost gauge still goes way to the left on overrun. If not, you're looking at a vacuum leak - possibly a hose or possibly a ruptured dump valve.

I have had the same problem on my Maptun'd 9000 Aero, which started while blasting round Goodwood on a track day. First noticed a lack of boost, then when I got back to the paddock, lots of steam coming past the coolant filler cap. While it runs fine off boost and doesn't use much water, giving it some welly does cause coolant loss. All cylinder compressions seem OK but No. 4 spark plug looks a funny grey colour and there are tiny crystals visible on it. When I get some time (next month), I'm going to have the head off for a good look. I suspect a blown head gasket but am prepared for the worst - a cracked head. I'll have the head crack tested and ported/polished before refitting it.

Hopefully, your problem will turn out to be less hassle. How's the temperature? Mine is running just a bit hotter than normal but doesn't overheat.

P.S. Moderators - would this perhaps get a better response in the 9000 forum?
 

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I suspect a blown head gasket but am prepared for the worst - a cracked head. I'll have the head crack tested and ported/polished before refitting it.[/b]
If it's any help, the symptoms on mine when the head was cracked (between inlet/exhaust valves on #2 cyl) were:

<ul type="square">
[*]Coolant loss - steady at first then increasing
[*]Cold start probs: Struggled to turn over then lumpy idle for 10 - 20 seconds
[*]Excessive water in exhaust gases
[*]BUT no cross contamination of oil/water
[*]Water on plugs
[*]Finally: noisey lifters due to localised low oil pressure

BUT
[*]NO Loss of boost/performance
[*]No stream from expansion tank, but it has since developed a small hole (probably age, not head-failure related)
[/list]
HTH
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes, it is possible that the water from the drain is from the a/c, I'll keep an eye on that, perhaps run without it on, and also check if I can smell antifreeze in it.

I topped up yesterday, about 1/2 a pint or so, and about the same again today, I'll check the level again in the morning. There's no obvious sign of water leaks and the temperature gauge reads normal.

Don't think there are any vacuum leaks, gauge goes far over to left as expected, new vacuum hoses fitted a month or so ago, and dump valve was recently replaced with an Abbott recirculating one (thanks to saab90002.3t for that )

My last 9000 had a blown head gasket - that one was pretty obvious by the clouds of water vapour out the exhaust, so I'm hoping it's not that in this case (also no water in oil or vice versa when I looked).

BillJ, hope your problem turns out to just be a simple head gasket job rather than a cracked head


Cheers, Matt
 

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While my 900 turbo is still basically stock (I drive it to work every day) I'm sure I'd eventually be tempted to up the ante. Anyway...

Check to make sure the hardware holding your wastegate closed is doing just that. If it's not completely closed you lose boost.

The solenoid valve could be going; at least, this was my problem when I couldn't get full boost. A quick check, but be careful!

Find a quiet, empty road. Disconnect the hose that goes from the solenoid valve to the wastegate actuator. In second gear, carefully accelerate. The boost will come on quite suddenly, and you could hit the electronic fuel cut-off. If this happens, you know the turbo is good and you have no leaks, so the most likely culprit is the solenoid valve. Don't forget to put the hose back after you've finished the test as you don't want to grenade the engine.

Additional note:
For you guys who have highly modified engines, please note that this was carried out on my own car, which is still basically stock. If you decide to give it a go, it's entirely at your own risk as I have no way of knowing if any of the safety measures on your cars have been overridden.
 
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