Tried to fit them this afternoon and fell at the first
any tips on how to loosen the shock top mount screw ??
will not budge for me and I did not want to break it.... (like I was doing at the beginning of the week )
any suggestions ?
When AlanB was doing his at Kodak, it took two of us - me holding the Allen key and Alan with a spanner on a spark plug socket. We thought they weren't going to budge, but they finally let go with a crack. I thihnk when I did it, I used a piece of tube on teh spanner as an extension.
Have never had occassion to try on the Saab, however looks like possibly a shortish box spanner over the nut with an allen key or allen socket on a short extension bar through the middle (3/8th socket set?)
Then get a big ring spanner on the other end of the box spanner and a tommy bar on the extension bar.
If possible have the spanner and tommy bar positioned so that you are able to use both hands to squeeze them together.
That's the theory anyway
PS sometimes it is easier if you try to TIGHTEN it first, then go the other way.
ylee, a tip when you come to do up the top nut on the Konis. If you leave it until it's in the car and try to do it the same way, you need an 11mm socket instead of the Allen key to hold the centre rod and if it's like mine, you're likely to round the corners off with the 11mm socket. What I did subsequently on taking them out for other reasons was to clamp the upper spring seat in a vice. By the time you've got any turning force on the top nut the spring seat is held tight and you can just tighten it up with a torque wrench. 22mm socket on the Konis, if memory serves, rather than 21mm on the Sachs, and I might have had to use a deep one - can't remember.
I told Alan to do this on his (he was fitting standard Sachs replacements, not Koni) and he decided he'd rather do it the hard way. I don't know whether any of the swearing I heard was down to that part of the job or whether they'll hold together...
If you are not going to use the old shocker again then get the drill out.
Get the compressors on the spring then get someone to hold the strut and drill the thing off. I have had to do it many a time.
Of yoe could always go the stilson/mole grips on the piston and socket on the nut method. This can be fiddly and your spring compressors may not allow access to the piston to grip it.
Also never under-estimate the shock of a good hammer thump. the hammer trick is good for teh strut to hub carrier bolts. Thump the head with a hammer a few times and a wire brush on the thread, bit of wd-40 and they usually come off.