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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can anyone tell me the amount of labour someone would charge to adjust a kickdown cable. Mine needs a good adjustmentand I don'tfancy doing it myswelf because I was told by one specialist that to do it properly involves taking the whole thing off, and refitting again which they would charge two hours labour for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I saw that in the Haynes too, hence when a specialist told me this, I thought, hmmm is someone trying to take me for a ride, or is he right and the Haynes manual is over simplifying what to do properly is amore involved job. He did say to do it properly means taking the whole cable off.
 

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Always shop around and get a couple of quotes, especially if you don't like the first.

I had a clutch cable (on a rover) changed recently, and managed to get the price reduced from 2 hours labour to one hour (best price given = £32), although I recon the job can be done in 0.5hrs by a competent person.

Sounds like your first quote was looking at a worse case scenarion (i.e. complete removal and replacement).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The Kickdown cable is virtually new, as it was replaced with the gearbox when I had it reconned earlier this year, it's just the place that did my gearbox, clearly didn't have the saab know how to adjust it properly (apparantly its common amongst non-saab mechs)
 

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The garage that did the gearbox job should by rights adjust the cable, and may not charge if it is a follow up to the original work.

But I guess that you'd rather have someone do the job who knew how!

Ref 9000CS23T's comments that the Haynes manual implies it's fairly easy to do, you could always show the original garage a copy of the Haynes manual - so they know what to do!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Cheers Paul, now I can tell the missus the good news, hopefully a good specialist will chuck the kickdown cable adjustment in for free! Reason why I ask is I think her cylinder head is cracked as it uses a little coolnat, and there is bubbles in the oil(though not too many) and performance ain't affected, hence a cracked CH rather than a head gasket.
 

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Interesting..!

My previous 9000 (1994 2l ECO CDE) cracked the head on cylinder No 3, after I took it for the fastest run I had ever done!

And the reason... The head gasket (which appeared to be the Saab original by all accounts) did not have a hole punched out on the water duct adjacent to cylinder No 3.

I am sure this was a design fault, but the car was too old and serviced outside of Saab Dealerships to warrant any payment from Saab.

It would seem that the car had not been run that speed/tempreture before, hence the head had not failed up to this point.

Also, the Saab Trained independant I used was not competent, and firstly replaced the head gasket without checking the head... So he had to end up doing the job again, and fitting a re-conditioned head.

So, check if the head is cracked, check that the gasket isn't faulty due to a water 'port' hole not having been stamped out properly. And make sure the fitter checks the head and doen's just refit a gasket.

I'd be interested to know if you do have a cracked head (nothing personal !) and if the gasket is to blame, or not.

It cost me another £300 to source a reconditioned head, which I bought from Saab Centre at Milton Keynes.

Anyway, hope it's just the gasket, especially as 9000's do have a common weekness - due to Saab not torquing the heads down enough in manufacturer on older cars!
 
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