I had no haynes to help me with this but the cars are very simple. Take the top of the dash off and then you have 2 T40 screws on the back of the instrument panel, take these out then lift it out a bit.
You can then choose to unplug the wiring plugs or remove the bulb holders with the display tilted up and change them.
I choose the latter cos I had already whipped it out a few times and then blew the bulb I never changed (typical eh) I ahave big hands so it was fiddly but i managed.
The other thing to watch out for as you lift the assembly up is that you don't lose the rubber flexi inserts that sit on the bottom of the cluster. They do tend to fall off down into the wiring mess...
Once it's out then access to all lamps is relatively straightforward. You'll also need to disconnect the hose from the APC gauge if you have one.