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I have just disassembled a faulty Automatic Idle Control valve (idle curiosity ) and I thought I'd post the results.

The motor is a straightforward armature, but it is surrounded by a permanent magnet, in two semicircular halves.

This magnet is made of what looks like a carbon/ceramic type of material, and it fractures when hit. The magnet on mine was fractured and was just catching the motor - only very lightly but enough to cause stiction.

The advice I have seen elsewhere to "hit the motor casing with a hammer to free a stuck valve" might not be appropriate in the circumstances - a light tap on the valve end might be OK, but treat the motor end with respect- these things cost £97


Hope this helps someone else - too late for me!
 

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Originally posted by DaveS:
[qb]"hit the motor casing with a hammer to free a stuck valve" [/qb][/b]
Indeed!

I freed my stuck valve by using a current limited bench top power supply and some light oil to disolve/soften the gunk that causes the valve mechanism itself to stick. Pulse the current on/off and you will gradually start to see the armature move as the oil does its job. Then use a good quality carb cleaner...
 

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Very interesting. Thanks to both of you for the great ideas. I've been fighting an idle problem forever. It dips to almost a stall about 3 times after startup and then smooths out but idles at 1100. It's been very frustrating as I have tried almost everything on this site. I never thought about testing the IAC out of the car.
 
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