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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
History: 1994 9000 Aero (5-speed)
Had a nasty vibration with hard acceleration and braking, but would be almost unnoticalbe when cruising at a constant speed. I replaced both axles (except for the tripods) vibration was gone.

Now I have a vibration (feels like it's from front right side/wheel) when cruising or decelerating (in or out of gear) The vibration goes away with moderate to hard braking and moderate to hard acceleration. I plan to check the front rotors this week. The vibration became noticable a few days ago (maybe 1 week) and seems to slowly be getting worse.

So what is this? Why does it seem to be the exact opposite of the vibration I had before? Did the inner driver finally [expletive deleted] out?

HELP ME PLEASE!!!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I replaced the upper mounts with the polyurethane (both of them) but they were in pretty bad shape so I suppose the others are probably shot too.

Does that mean you all think it's NOT the inner driver? I was planning to replace the motor mounts with poly anyway (the ones I could get anyway the rest will be OE).

How hard is it to replace all the mounts (except for the upper dogbone)?

Thanks for the warm welcome and quick responses. I'm sure I'll be spending a fair amount of time here.
 

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aerosaaber,

First off, hello from another Rochester Saab owner! ('93 9K CDE, non-turbo, unfortunately... )

Anyways, BillJ's saab9000.com site (linked from here) has an excellent write-up on doing the motor mounts. I was going to use it, but chickened out and had a local indy take a look at them. (Luckily, they're just worn, not ripped).

Best of luck,

mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I can see why these sounds indicate the motor mounts, but one thing has me stumped: the sound persists when the car is moving, even if the clutch is in or the tranny is in neutral. This is what made me think that the problem was the inner driver.

Side note, while replacing the front or rear motor mount, how hard would it be to replace the control arm bushing? (I have a set of poly ones waiting to be installed).

TIA
 

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The control arm bushings are very easy to replace. Jack up the front of the car. At the rear of the control arm, remove the 4 bolts that hold the retaining plate on. Remove the 18mm bolt at the end of the control arm that holds the rear bushing on. I used a flat pry bar to lever down the control arm until I could slip off the bushing. Do the same to slip on the new one. Make sure the grooves point to the rear of the car.

The only tricky part is that you're not supposed to retighten the 18mm nut until the car is back on the ground, to avoid stressing the bushing. So, put the washer and nut on lightly, then reinstall the retaining plate. Lower the car and tighten the 18mm nut. Note that I had to get a stubby 18mm wrench to do this since there's not a whole lot of clearance to the ground, and no room for a socket. Technically, it's supposed to be torqued to 48 ft-lb, but I just did it up to "pretty tight."

Overall, about a 15 minute per side job.(It was actually the only repair I've done so far that went smoothly and as expected...
)

mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So did you do it without removing the wheel? All I have for 18mm is the 1/2" socket that came with my torque wrench, will that be too big to do this job? Am I gonna have to go pick up a 1/8" 18mm socket?

Also, there are a few college Saabers here in Rochester (mainly at RIT that I know of). I'll be done with school soon, but I'm planning to stay in Rochester at least until I can't stand the winters anymore.
 

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You'll definitely need something other than a socket. There's no clearance to get a socket on the 18mm nut holding on the rear bushing. I found a stubby wrench set at KMart for not too much money. You might even be able to find them in single pieces at Sears so you could get just the 18mm stubby wrench without buying the whole set.

mike
 

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With regard to the inner drive couplings (tripods) - I thought mine was worn on my old 9000T with 174,000miles on it. When I replaced it there was little or no wear so they can go long distances before changing.
 

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I my experience worn inner drivers cause vibration problems on hard acceleration mainly on roundabouts (do they have such things in the states?) - basically when turning under had acceleration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Roundabaouts (traffic circles) yup we've got them. Not hugely prevalent though.

Does anyone here know of a cheap source for the mount/bushing press tool needed for the transmission mount (and I assume the upper motor mounts use the same tool)?
 

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Originally posted by aerosaaber:
[qb]Roundabaouts (traffic circles) yup we've got them. Not hugely prevalent though.

Does anyone here know of a cheap source for the mount/bushing press tool needed for the transmission mount[/qb][/b]
You shouldn't need it on a '94-on gearbox. The mount is held by a clamp which simply unbolts. No pressing required. You can also get away without a special tool for the upper mounts if you're prepared to take the front bracket off, hack out the old bush and press the new one in with a vice. The entire rear "dogbone" mount is available as a bolt-on replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Sorry for the extra post, but I'm wondering what motor/tranny mounts to buy.
I'm thinking of the poly for the tranny mount (I don't mind vibration) but what about the others? OE hydraulic or solid rubber? Does one last longer than the other? Or perform better? Eventually I want a large quantity of power so I'd like to get the most durable mount regardless of how much vibration is transmitted.

TIA

EDIT: The upper mounts are already poly (I did the whole remove/hack process. That was lots of fun. Also I'll take a look at the tranny mount and see what it really looks like, so far I've just been going on what pics I've seen online.
 
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