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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For various reasons my 900T 16 has been replaced by a '94 9000 CDE 2.0i. I've had the car for 10 months and it's great but I miss the turbo. I have considered selling to buy a turbo but the car is so good I don't want to get rid (and I I'd probably take a big loss). My friendly Saab specialist serviced it and improved the performance no end just by fitting the correct spark plugs, he also suggesting fitting an lpt turbo as he has one laying around. Would this be total folly and is it as straight forward has he suggest? How do you reckon the insurance company would react?

Has any one tried raising the pressure on the injector rail on a normally aspirated car? Did it make a difference?

I know I should just cut my losses and trade up but the car is superb and I've grown strangely attached too it.
 

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If you've got the space, I'd hold on to the 9000 and buy another Saab Turbo.

I'm sure it can be done (i.e. add the turbo) but a lot of insurance companies will not want to touch it with a very long stick.

My 220BHP 2.3 Carlsson cost around one fifth of the cost it would have been to insure my old CS 2.0LPT if it had been upgraded from 150 to 190 BHP


I'd personally rather trade in the car as opposed to bolting on a turbo - if it is very easy (i.e. cheap with no adverse side affects) and you have a very understanding insurance company, go for it...
 

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I know I should just cut my losses and trade up but the car is superb and I've grown strangely attached too it.
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Yes, trade up. You could probably get a turbo with slightly higher miles (assumung the 2.0i isn't a high miler) at moderate cost. You won't regret it.
 

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A normally aspirated Saab engine has a higher static compression ratio than even an lpt, which is mechanically identical to a full turbo with the exception of wengine management and in some cases the lack of an intercooler. That makes it challenging to fit a turbo - it's been done before, but it is by no means a straight swap to lpt spec. You'll have to restrict yourself to very low boost pressures, fitting a knock sensor activated boost control system (APC) and/or ignition retard and an intercooler will be a must and water injection very advisable if you want to run enough boost to be anywhere near 900T16 levels of performance. Then you will have to work out fueling all across the rpm/boost pressure band - typically this will have to be done in a dyno facility, with fuel/air ratio and exhaust gas temperature measurements.

Better then, to bring the car to full turbo spec using engine, ancillaries and if applicable suspension out of a write-off donor vehicle (Two Stroke To Turbo advertise with refurbishments done this way, i.e. fit your older, high mileage car with all the mechanicals of a late-model, low-mileage donor vehicle) - this way, you might get away with insuring the car as the corresponding higher spec vehicle after a certified inspection at which point it is established the car is indeed identical to say, a CDE 2.3 Turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Guys, you've told me what a suspected - if you want a turbo go and by one. The garage bloke that suggested the mod did suggest changing the engine as well (presumably because of the compression ratio).

I've just been to look at a 2.3cde fpt identical in all other respects to my existing car (lower mileage and 18months younger) the deal wants £2800 plus my car. I might just by a motorbike instead and use the car for its intended purpose, cruising up and down the motorways.
 

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Having sold a full blown Turbo (1990 model) and bought a 1994 LPT, I know what you mean about missing the Turbo. Whilst I love my car, it just doesn't do what the old 9000 16v did (the missing 25 bhp is very obvious), so go for a full blown one if you trade up. Although there are plenty of people here that could advise me about the best wat to improve it.
 

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I don't think the insurance would be a lot different between a lpt and a fpt so if upgrading you might aswell go for a fpt and then no need to upgrade the ECU to make it a fpt,just a thought
 

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Originally posted by SkegnessSaab:
[qb]Although there are plenty of people here that could advise me about the best wat to improve it.[/qb][/b]
you say your missing the extra 25bhp that a fpt gave you? well then how does an extra 76bhp sound? Speedparts ECU upgrade will give you this extra power (I think depending on model) so how does that sound? Then it may feel like a proper Turbo
 

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I started off with a 2.3i upgrading from a 1.8 cavalier. I didn't go for the 2.0 as the local saab dealer told me that it was "lacking". If its just for town use then I'd stick with it... but for longer runs I'd go for a 2.3 or a turbo any time.. I still find the 2.0 eco "dull" if you know what I mean... Ok I guess having a 2.3 fpt as an alternative spoils my view point..

Odlly enough my insurance charged me the same to put the 2.3 on my insurance as the 2.0

Steve
 

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Originally posted by StephenA:
[qb]I still find the 2.0 eco "dull" if you know what I mean... Ok I guess having a 2.3 fpt as an alternative spoils my view point..[/qb][/b]
Strangely, I have a bog-standard 2.0 Eco and a tuned 300hp Aero and I don't find the 2.0 dull in the slightest. In fact, I'll take it out "for a drive" almost as often as the Aero. It's by no means a slow car and it's more fun than the Aero around town.
 

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Originally posted by RobS:
[qb]Has any one tried raising the pressure on the injector rail on a normally aspirated car? Did it make a difference?[/qb][/b]
I know someone who fitted a rising-rate fuel pressure regulator on a 2.0i auto and reports that it made quite a noticeable improvement to the performance.
 
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