Saabscene Saab Forum - Saab Technical Information Resource banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
393 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I finally cracked. I'd had enough of topping up the coolant once a week, and the whiff of coolant whenever the fan was on (most of the time given the weather recently!), so armed with info from this site and Quasimotors I set about changing the heater matrix.

The bottom line is it took longer than I'd have liked (when did a job ever take less time than you'd like?) but less time than I'd feared. It's also not that difficult, and I can confirm that you don't need to take the wipers off or the plastic trim along the base of the windscreen (at least on a '94 car).

I took the blower motor out without disconnecting the matric hoses, but it would probably have been a little easier if I had. Quasimotors suggests using a 7mm socket on a universal joint to undo the jubilee clips attaching the hoses to the matrix, but I found a 7mm ring spanner worked fine.

What else.... The refitting of the blower motor is a mixture of wriggle/wiggle/push/pull and eventually it just pops back in. Oh, and standing back and having a look/think a few times helps as well!

The biggest problem was actually being able to reach all the way over the engine bay to get at the blower and matrix. I don't know about you other guys who have done this job, but my arms aren't 8 feet long! I spent an awful lot of saturday hopping up and down on and off the engine like a demented chimp. Consequently the following day my arms, back, and legs all ached more than I expected. Oh, and my wrists/forearms look like I've been fighting with several cats.

The real purpose of this post is to give confidence to anyone else out there who is contemplating this job. IT CAN BE DONE! And don't believe everything Mr Haynes tells you! You'd be there all weekend if you undid/took off everything suggested in the manual.

Cheers,

Ben.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
411 Posts
Now that's given me heart to try doing the same to my car!
The pong of anti-freeze on a cold morning is more than I can take.
All I have to do now is to find a heater matrix that's not going to break the bank to buy! Got to lubricate a squeaky blower motor whilst I'm down in the entrails. Anyone got any tips for this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,242 Posts
I agree, did mine not too long ago and I also agree that you need to out think the matrix (pun intended).

Standing back and figuring out the geometry of how it needs to go, then replaying the movement physically certainly helps.

I felt myself doing a similar thing last week when refitting the cylinder head and power steering pump. I knew the head had to fit because it had come off but it certainly wasn't a case of just lowering it down.

Anyway, well done.

Stephen, have you looked at Eurocar parts? I got my matrix from there, was about 70 quid. I wouldn't go for a second hand one on the simple basis that it's a common failure point and you don't want to have to do it a second time in a short space of time.

David.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Well done, seems every 9K owner has to do a heater core change as a rite of passage.

I pulled out the heater lately - the second time around. First time took me about 4 hours (changed the blower motor). The second time less than an hour. Here is what I learned:

1. Use rubber gardening type gloves when pulling out the blower housing. It will protect you from cuts and you will have a better grip on the plastic housing.

2. After removing the false bulkhead and the long rubber molding that runs across it, tape all the sheet metal edges with duct tape. It will save you from cuts and make pulling the blower easier as the blower housing will slide over the tape and not catch on the sharp edge of the sheet metal.

3. Spray the bottom of blower housing and the tabs that hold it with dry silicone spray, it will go out much easier.

4. Remove the blower speed control from the evaporator. As Abusoft mentioned it has razor sharp fins. (It’s held by 3 small Torx screws. 2 on top are visible the third is under the electrical connector - disconnect and remove the speed control.

5. I found I gained extra space to pull the fan housing out by removing the big round rubber gasket between the evaporator and the fan housing. Note: put it back in place before you put the blower back in again. Important: it has to go in with the two line marks on the gasket aligned with the 1" notch in the evaporator.

6. Use a good bright flashlight (to see and find the tabs that hold the blower housing).

7. Place 2-3 flattened large cardboard boxes across the engine compartment and a thick blanket on top. This allows sitting or kneeling comfortably to do the job.

Also there is a good procedure page with pictures at electricbbs.com in the link below. Hope it helps.

Heater core procedure
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
393 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I got mine from GSF for 59 quid +VAT. Exactly the same pice as ECP. GSF in reading is easier to get to on a Saturday than ECP in Reading, and they had one in stock. No brainer.

Oh, I found a headtorch was the best way to see what I was doing. It leaves both hands free to get the job done.

When I told my Dad, he was reminded of the time he had to remove the heater matrix from the Avenger we had when I was a kid. He took it to a man who soldered the leak for the princely sum of one English pound.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
I replaced the heater matrix too late: leakage from it ruined my SRS ECU.

I noticed the gradual loss of coolant requiring monthly top-up months beforehand. But didn't know this was an indication of a leaking heater matrix.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top