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This morning I went to the local vauxhall dealer and purchased a shiny new EGR valve. It did not look quite the same to me but the dealer said it was the right one. Took it home and it was OK except that when fitted the electrical connection was facing downwards instead of the original one facing up!!!. Don't know if this is by design or someone just put it together wrong! After fitting it the car sounded smoother just idling, and driving it I now have all the low down power back again - it felt great until..... it started to misfire. Doh, 2 steps forward and one step back! Need to start surfing again to see what that could be all about, unless one of you good chaps can give me some ideas? It misfires on moderate acceleration. Seems OK with gentle or hard acceleration but gives a misfire randomly in-between.
 

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This morning I went to the local vauxhall dealer and purchased a shiny new EGR valve. It did not look quite the same to me but the dealer said it was the right one. Took it home and it was OK except that when fitted the electrical connection was facing downwards instead of the original one facing up!!!. Don't know if this is by design or someone just put it together wrong! After fitting it the car sounded smoother just idling, and driving it I now have all the low down power back again - it felt great until..... it started to misfire. Doh, 2 steps forward and one step back! Need to start surfing again to see what that could be all about, unless one of you good chaps can give me some ideas? It misfires on moderate acceleration. Seems OK with gentle or hard acceleration but gives a misfire randomly in-between.[/b]
Update: Phoned main dealer today and he said it may be that the ECU needs 'mapping' to the new EGR valve. Usually this happents without any intervention but they have had cases where the tech2 is required. He suggested that I run the car for a couple of hundred miles which may teach the ECU the right settings for the EGR. Here's hoping!
 

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Thanks Hitby
For your excellent guide on EGR replacement, mine had been taken off b4 and the chewed up cap screws were a pig to get out so your pics were a great help. I went the route of buying a new valve and gaskets before starting rather than trying to service the old valve as a first resort. I intend to service the old valve and retain it as a spare, I must say the the car is so much better now and the thing now pulls like a train below 2000 rpm, it is so much more powerful overall and much smoother too.
I have found that GM are now selling a new engine oil called Dexos 2 which leaves lower ash residuals and should improve the service life of the DPF and all associated components which I presume includes the exhaust system and EGR. The oil is around £16/5litre which is a massive improvement on the cost of Mobil 1.

Thanks again


Lesoak
 

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I'm so new to the forum that I haven't even picked up my car yet, I will do so on Tuesday, it's a 150 '06 Convertible diesel 9-3, with 54000 miles on the clock.

I have had a Rover 75 diesel for the last 5 years, it's now on almost 160,000 miles, and still goes like stink. The reason I'm posting is that a few years ago I fitted an EGR bypass unit, which obviously does away with the EGR valve altogether, and the vacuum pipe is plugged/sealed.

As this made a noticeable difference, I wonder if the same thing could be done/is available for the Saab diesel? Judging by the comments on this thread, maybe it's not, but worth asking, I thought.

Malcolm
 

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I'm so new to the forum that I haven't even picked up my car yet, I will do so on Tuesday, it's a 150 '06 Convertible diesel 9-3, with 54000 miles on the clock.

I have had a Rover 75 diesel for the last 5 years, it's now on almost 160,000 miles, and still goes like stink. The reason I'm posting is that a few years ago I fitted an EGR bypass unit, which obviously does away with the EGR valve altogether, and the vacuum pipe is plugged/sealed.

As this made a noticeable difference, I wonder if the same thing could be done/is available for the Saab diesel? Judging by the comments on this thread, maybe it's not, but worth asking, I thought.

Malcolm[/b]

Try this thread HERE
 

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These are really good instructions.

I gave mine a clean and found that there to be a lot deposited on the inside of the manifold which I scraped out with a knife.

Also gave the MAP sensor a clean. I sprayed it with Carb cleaner without thinking about it, then got worried the carb cleaner would be bad for the sensor in some way, but it seemed to work alright once all back together.

Engine now seems quieter as well as pulling away more smoothly. Also noticed it doesn't 'rough' idle when I start it up...

Cheers,

T
 

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Hi All,

I have noticed, in the last 2 days, a slight hesitation (sometimes hiccup) on occasion, when I get back on the gas after engine braking/slowing down etc... Happens at low revs (up to 2500rpm)... No EML or any other indicators - could this be the start of EGR issues??

Regards

Oscar
 

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Hi All,

I have noticed, in the last 2 days, a slight hesitation (sometimes hiccup) on occasion, when I get back on the gas after engine braking/slowing down etc... Happens at low revs (up to 2500rpm)... No EML or any other indicators - could this be the start of EGR issues??

Regards

Oscar[/b]
Going from my recent experiences I'd be tempted to start by cleaning the MAP sensor. It's only 1 bolt and ten minutes to do. Soak it in some carb cleaner and give it a gentle scrub with a toothbrush.
 

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Going from my recent experiences I'd be tempted to start by cleaning the MAP sensor. It's only 1 bolt and ten minutes to do. Soak it in some carb cleaner and give it a gentle scrub with a toothbrush.[/b]

Thanks for that, I had a long chat to my local Indy and am going to pop by to put it on their diagnostic (Tech2 I presume). I was just a bit concerned about hunting for problems as it really is not that bad (although I do think the engine sounds a bit noisier than usual).

However, where is the MAP sensor located? I will give that a bash before... I am not going to clean the EGR as results seem to be mixed as to whether it cures the problem (plus I will probably end up causing more damage!).

Cheers
 

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Thanks for that, I had a long chat to my local Indy and am going to pop by to put it on their diagnostic (Tech2 I presume). I was just a bit concerned about hunting for problems as it really is not that bad (although I do think the engine sounds a bit noisier than usual).

However, where is the MAP sensor located? I will give that a bash before... I am not going to clean the EGR as results seem to be mixed as to whether it cures the problem (plus I will probably end up causing more damage!).

Cheers[/b]
Have a look at the 3rd photo in this post (thanks go to hitby) and you'll see it just left of the yellow circle. The bolt you need to remove is just by the top right corner of the white rectangle. You can just get an allen key in. Undo the bolt, disconnect the plug and pull out the sensor (slightly tight because of the seal). Give it a gentle scrub with a toothbrush/carb cleaner and pop it back. The symptoms you have are very similar to mine (although I also replaced the EGR valve) and the car drives so much better now).
 

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If installing a brand new EGR valve is there any calibration required on tech2 or OPCOM? If so how do I go about it?
 

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M4TT
No calibration / tech 2 required. Should work straight out of the box. If you have any issues afterwards it may be another faulty component that was not manifesting itself with faulty egr inplace. Mine was a dodgy MAP sensor also so be aware of this.
 

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Thanks to N2STY and Enzo's advice and instructions I have now replaced my EGR valve. Car pulls like it has been chipped and I have been the happiest man in Britain this weekend. It took just over an hour taking my time and I am truly rubbish at all things cars! 1 question however is, where the EGR connects to the manifold/engine block this appeared to be totally clogged up inside but I could obviously only scrape away the deposits at the front. It was very sludge like, a lot wetter feeling than the carbon in the old EGR valve. I am assume this is just oil mixing with carbon but surely all the rubbish inside the engine can't be good for the car and how does the car get rid of this?
 

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THANK YOU .v helpfull post. i havent done my self, but after i read this post i asked my mechanic to do that and it helpt to remove hesitation below 2000 rpm on 1st and 2nd gears.
 

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Can anyone recommend where to get the Hex Socket Set from?? Will it fit onto the 1/4 torque wrench?

Also, were any long reach sockets required?

Bit of an amateur!

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Hi Mods,

I've recently changed my domain name so the pics for the guide are no longer appearing. Please advise how I can edit my post to add them back in

Cheers
 

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I just registered to thank hitby for the great instructions and photos. I swapped out the EGR today in my 07 plate 9-3 (120) because I was getting increasingly poor MPG and sluggish response under 2000 RPM. Time will tell whether it fixed it but these instructions were a big help, so thank you!

Few things:
1) Bolts were different on mine. M8x25 won't fit as they would bottom out - you'd probably need M8x20. Fortunately I didn't round off the originals too much.
2) Wearing gloves would have been a great idea, I didn't and as mentioned in this thread the carbon gunky stuff is impossible to get off your hands
3) The 2 hex bolts on the underneath are stubborn *[email protected]*ers to loosen off !!!
4) Don't step in the carbon gunk then walk it into your house like I did. It ruins carpets!

Thanks hitby, great thread!
 

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Hi all,
Just read this topic and was wondering if this process is the same for the 9-3 2.2tdi.? Can`t believe i never used this sight earlier. had my egr cleaned twice now at a cost of £180.00 each time!! my local indy told me it would cost £500 to have a new 1 fitted! Light come on again yesterday, dont fancy shelling out another £180. Please advise.
Thanks.
 
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