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My 93 was in the garage for MOT yesterday and as the warranty ends at the end of the month, I mentioned the fact that power at low revs seems reduced. It was not horrendous but seems to have occurred gradually over a period of time to the point where I was starting to dismiss it as being normal. There were no warning lights/ codes etc.

Anyway after the MOT the garage, which I have to say is a first class Saab dealer, cleaned out the EGR which they said wasn't too bad but a bit clogged.

When I drove the car away, it was like driving a different car (not quite like the TTID loan car but good). It drove the way it should do, was smoother and accelleration quicker.

I would say that if you have any doubts about the way your car is performing, it is a relatively quick job to do or get done and makes a lot of difference. I understand that the modified EGRs are in short supply at the moment but I will ceratinly consider getting one fitted when I can.
 

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Hello,

Does anyone have any pictures/instructions for doing the same EGR clean on a TiD 150? I think I can guess which part is the EGR based on these 120 TiD instructions, but I'd like a little reassurance!!!

Tom
 

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9-3 TDi 150 16v

Symptoms
Sluggish, poor acceleration below 2500rpm, behaving like low powered car.

Also, last week ran the engine low on fuel - was prompted by system warning to refill - followed by a couple of misfires (is this a way of reminding you to fill up?)
Next day, major misfire - wouldn't pull between 2000rpm and 3000rpm.
Left car at airport for 1 week - journey home yesterday no problems.

Today.
Removed EGR - quite clogged up
Cleaned EGR

Unscrewed Solenoid - pretty clogged up too, but spring valve seemed ok.
Cleaned Spring/solenoid face.

Engine block/manifold where EGR attaches was quite clogged up too.
Carefully scraped away carbon deposits.

Result (so far)
Test drive -
Pulled cleanly from rest, accelerated much much better.
Appears to have fixed the low power, poor acceleration problem.

Removing EGR on a 150 16v
Straightforward job (no more difficult than changing spark plugs)
Remove engine cover (note that to refit you might need to pull off the 4 rubber 'feet' and reattach them to the cover
Remove foam noise suppression - just pull off
EGR is at the back/right as per other instructions given.
Undo 2 vertical bolts
Undo 4 horizontal bolts
Unclip electrical connection (pull down yellow tab, connection is quite tight)

Also noted
1. Injector 3 plastic covering seems to have melted - black goo around the injector - is this serious?
2. With the engine cover still off - front right - small reverse 'c' shaped rubber pipe - vacuum hose. Bottom was
perished, letting air leak in (or out?) - replaced the rubber pipe.
No idea what it does - but may have been part of the low power problem?!

 

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I have a 9-3 150 TiD which had loss of power across all the rev range. Having cleaned out the EGR valve i have power above 2500rpm but little below it and i still have the engine light.

does anyone know of anything else that i can do to restore the power below the 2500rpm? :confused:
 

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check rubber pipes conectiong Turbo to the engine and to the intercooler - one may be punctured. I had this issue twice. It goes off with 'PFFF" and then there is a loss of power and engin can't get more than 3000 rev
 

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I have a 9-3 150 TiD which had loss of power across all the rev range. Having cleaned out the EGR valve i have power above 2500rpm but little below it and i still have the engine light.

does anyone know of anything else that i can do to restore the power below the 2500rpm? :confused:[/b]
May be your DPF needs a regen
 

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I have a Saab 93 Vector 1.9TiD 8v, October 2004 with 95K on the clock. Just recently the Engine Check Light came on. The OBDII code reported is P0400, suggesting the EGR valve is faulty. I'm planning on removing and cleaning as per the instructions given here.

However, I'm interested to know how confident folks are that this is the real problem, as the car drives perfectly.

Your thoughts welcome.
 

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I have a Saab 93 Vector 1.9TiD 8v, October 2004 with 95K on the clock. Just recently the Engine Check Light came on. The OBDII code reported is P0400, suggesting the EGR valve is faulty. I'm planning on removing and cleaning as per the instructions given here.

However, I'm interested to know how confident folks are that this is the real problem, as the car drives perfectly.

Your thoughts welcome.[/b]
GazzerB,

My Engine Check light came on intermittantly and more recently was permenantly on prior to the power reducing as others describe in this topic.

I think that your EGR is still working but is in the process of sooting up. In other words if you don't do anything, don't be surprised if the power starts reducing. With mine, once the power went and I cleaned the EGR, it was still not working properly below 2500, and it turned out that the electrical side of the EGR had failed as had the Air Mass Flow meter.

Once these were fixed, the subsequent problems have been that the SID displays 'ECU not programmed' which is a consequence of it dropping its codes (display for DTE, fuel consumption etc) due to the battery being disconnected. Still haven't got this entirely solved yet.

I think that if I had cleaned the EGR as soon as the light came on, I would not have had the rest of the issues.

Hope that helps. :thumbsup:
 

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Hi,
Followed the Cleaning Instructions and also freed up the valves etc.... But no difference to the cars performance. Still running in limp mode etc. I noticed the Solenoid thingy was extremly stiff. I did the following....

1. Removed the plastic side of the EGR valve, by unscrewing the 4 screws the connect it to the main body. i placed it on top of a 32 mm socket (metal end down). I then drilled a 4mm hole in the other end (centre end where the plug inserts)


I then used a punch to drive out the solenoid which dropped into the socket. It was badly corroded. I cleaned it with emery cloth and then coated it with 3 in 1 oil. - Put it all back together, Siliconed over the drill hole and hey presto - Cars running better than ever!!


Ian
 

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I finally removed the EGR valve for cleaning, after having the Trouble Code P0400.

On inspection, there wasn't that much carbon to clean away, but none the less I cleaned with carb spray and a cloth.

I removed the Solenoid end of the valve via the 4 screws and found the valve (spring assembly) and the solenoid pin to be stuck. I cleaned the valve and lubricated so that it was free to move. I also was able to free up the solenoid pin after cleaning with carb spray and lubricating with WD40. Although I didn't drill and punch out.

I then re-assembled and fitted, reset the code and now after a couple of days the engine check light is back on with the same code. I now think I should have drilled, punched out and cleaned.

The question I now have is should I

- Remove again and complete the last cleaning step (drill, punch out and clean)
- Purchase a new valve and fit
- Is the EGR valve really at fault and could it be something else that's faulty.

Your thoughts welcome
 

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Hi i cleaned the EGR valve today after experiencing the faults you mentioned, i.e no power at low RPM.
Now it works fine.
Really appreciate the help and the photos and instructions were much better than any Haynes Manual

Well done
Stubbuk
 

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I have the same problems with my 2005 TiD. Fuel consumption getting worse, low power at low revs, engine light sometimes comes on. After reading these helpful EGR tips I took off the valve today and cleaned it. It had loads of crud in so thought I had found the culprit but it's still the same. I also took off the actuator valve and made sure the pin was free and the spring moved ok. What else could I look for or could it be that the EGR valve needs renewing?
 

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Hi Daveymaboy,

My EGR valve failed recently and although I followed the detailed instructions posted here and cleared the MIL code after refitting my engine check light came back on after a few days. After taking the advice from N2STY I purchased a new valve and fitted. All’s been fine since.

GazzerB
 
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