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92 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys, having just done it, here's how!

This was done on a 1994 2.0 LPT Auto RHD - I have been told that some other cables are different.

I was told that it was easier to remove the glovebox, but that turned out not to be the case, as there was a lump of metal in the way, so it didnt help get access inside.

The cable is held in just by a tight rubber grommet - there are no bolts or clips. The cable goes through the bulkhead - but just underneath the false bulkhead, so you dont need to undo the aquarium thing.

Here's the shiny new cable:

Notice the white part at the left end, that's the bit that is gripped (tight) by the rubber grommet.
Here's a view up under the left footwell:

All the black metalwork is the bar that takes the throttle pedal from the Right of the car to the left. At the top you can just see the cable end (brass coloured barrel) on a small rubber washer. Against the blue of the bulkhead, you can just see the white part of the cable as shown in the previous pic.
Unhook the barrel from the black metal rod - there's a slot for this, and unclip the white holder that's inside the black rod.

Now all you have to do is get the cable out. I was told to yank hard on the cable - no joy, so I made a special tool. Beware - if you yank hard, the cable will start to lengthen so if you hanv't got a replacement, you will destroy the cable and be unable to drive the car!

If you look in the first pic, you can see a notch cut in the metal sleeve- half way between the spring and the rubber. This slot is hidden from view when the cable is still in the car.
Here's the business end of the tool I made:

Here's how the tool fits onto the (old) cable:

I slid the tool down the cable inside the engine compartment until it clicked into the slot and pulled - still no joy, it was stuck hard.
Next I added some string to the end of the tool so I could pull with both hands:

This is what it looks like mounted ready to pull:

Pulled it out no problem.

To put the new cable in, put some oil (I used Engine oil) or washing up liquid on the white plastic part (see first pic) of the new cable so it would slip through the rubber grommet. Then I used my tool again to push the new cable in.
Connect up both ends, and I was sailing again!

This was all to fix my sticky throtle cable after oiling the sheath didnt work.

Cost of cable was £35 + VAT

Hope this helps others....

88 Posts
Great work Speccy

a well presented procedure
this will be invaluable for my next project

- sticky accelerator cable seemed to be a prob with the saabs, i think it is caused by the 90 degree bend design

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