[S.o.b.]

sorry i havent posted in a long time, i'm getting frustrated trying to get my Saab on the road. with a little help from you guys i might be able to do it by Christmas.

the problem:

i replaced the transmission a few months ago, i only went about 90 miles when the left cv riped out of the transmission. the cup on the trans whare the cv fits was badly riped apart. i have the old one but i'm not sure if i get a new cup with a new cv kit or not. my other problem is that i cant get the cup off the transission at all!! verry mad abut this part. Haynes says that you need a slide hammer..... ok so i got one and still nothing. i think it has 5 bolts around the cup, i'v removed all of these and then placed the slide hammer on the cup and hammer, hammer, hammer, no good. that plate with the 5 bolts comes off with it right? i dont have to have the transmission out to do this right? i was told i just had to tap, tap, tap it out...... the truck i'm driving today is a piece of [expletive deleted]. (example) my truck needed gas today but insted of putting $20 in it i put $10 only because i dident want to waste the money if my truck broke before it used all the gas.. ha ha, sorry i'm not trying to get pitty it's just i need a little help. if you can tell me how to get the cv cup out i'll be your best friend. you guys have all been great in the past. thanks for whatever you can help with.

Matt - owner of a broken saab

 

[dave225]

Hi
From what the manual says it's a similar arrangement to the C900 transmission - which I have had apart before.
Firstly - obvious really - I assume you did take out all 5 bolts? And I'm assuming that the CV cup still spins as it should (i.e. nothing in the gearbox is smashed).
Behind the flange is a large diameter shoulder, which carries an o-ring, and fits into the hole in the casing. Shims sit between the flange and the casing.
The flange should pop straight off as you say.
If it doesn't, my bet would be that there is a little corrosion between the shoulder and the bore, probably on the air-side of the o-ring (no oil there), and this is stopping the flange from moving.
The kindest solution, and one which I would try first, is to spray some release oil all round the flange and hope it seeps through - the problem is, the corrrosion might be too far away for it to reach.

Next - try to move the flange by rotating it (as opposed to moving it IN in OUT) - be careful here not to smash the flange.
2 methods to use here:-

1 Use a hammer, but not directly on the aluminium flange - use a copper drift or a piece of wood in between to reduce the shock loading. Tap in a circumferential direction on one of the 5 "bolt holes". If it won't budge - then I would try the hammer directly, but be careful!!

2 Get two dummy bolts, or dowels, and leave them sticking up in the holes and use a lever between them, and try and rotate the flange that way. The downside here is that the "bolts" might damage the inside of the holes as you lean on the lever - but they are only clearance holes so I can't see a serious problem (compared to not getting your CV off!).

Watch it doesn't fall off the jack or axle stands when you're pulling on the lever!

Once you've "broken the seal" by rotating the flange you can then try the release oil again - it should seep in much better now - and you should be able to get it out without too much trouble.

Hope this helps.
Dave

 

[wrighar]

It shouldn't take too much to get out. I got 2 out in only a few minutes, hardest part was getting the bolts out..

You need to make sure you get the correct replacement cup too, the 2 in this picture are both from 2.3 T's but one's (the larger) a carlsson, the other just a 2.3T.

The pictures do show nicely the slieve, orig and flange.

You can also see part of a broom handle and a small hammer......

Andrew

 

[S.o.b.]

hey, much thanks to you guys for taking the time to post a reply. from what you'v said i think i'll be able to do it. should i use the slide hammer like thay say? and if so, use it on the cup or the flange? i have a "good" cup off the old transmission i took out, i'll take it apart and make sure it's not all mashed up from the explosion it had. when i order new cv's what are they going to come with? not the cup right? the car was shaking badly on accelaration just before it broke. i'm asuming it was because of the bad cup. i'm on a budget but is thair aneything else i should check before installing the new cup/cv? sorry if i'm rambling. i just dont have alot of other people to talk to so i have lots of questions. thanks again for all your help.

p.s. i'v got the day off tomarow so i'll try to give it a try. i'll tell you how it goes.

 

[dave225]

Ideally the slide hammer should pull centrally (along the line of the shaft) so you don't try to twist the flange which will tend to jam it in the bore, but it's difficult to attach it centrally I guess.

I would suspect that if the slide hammer didn't work last time it'll not work again, unless you just didn't whack it hard enough last time!
Whatever you do, you are just trying to rupture the bond caused by the corrosion.

Sometimes flanges on machinery have special notches so you can insert a wedge (usually a screwdriver!) between it and the casing. This is so you can lever the flange away from the casing, when it's stuck. I suspect these flanges have no notches, but if nothing else works then you could try with an old chisel or some thin wedge shaped object, to try to separate the flange from the casing that way.

Again - remember that if you lift it too much you might smash the flange, so do the same at different places around the circumference to try and lift it evenly. AND rememeber the shims are in between so you may not get them out umdamaged.

Just had an idea - if you drill some holes into the side of the flange then you could use them as a notch to try and lift the flange away from the casing - saves chewing up the shims. Don't drill too deep though, you might break through to the inside.