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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
my -89 9000i CD is always a bit hard to start, the starter has to make 8-10 turns before the engine comes to life. Then, everything is fine. This ALWAYS is the case, at cold starts or at warm starts. New spark plugs/cables did not change a thing.

Ideas, anyone?

//woolfie
 

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Not sure if this is a problem that affects Saabs, but what about the non-return valve in the fuel system? This valve should keep the system pressurised when the engine stops, to prevent vapor-lock and to ensure a quick start. If it is allowing pressure to drop off, you may get the symptoms described.

Does it start OK if you stop it, then start it right away?
 

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I think the older models always crank a few times before starting. My H reg did, my brothers J reg does, Saabkats K reg does.

I had always assumed it was part of their "start-up" procedure.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It seems to start a bit easier when I turn off the engine, then turn on the ignition directly afterwards /5 cranks instead of 10). So this non-return-valve may be the cause of it all. Does anyone know where it is located on a 9000i -89 non turbo??

//woolfie
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
oh, by the way...

idle seems to be a bit irregular. Sometimes it idles at slightly under 1000r/m, sometimes it is at 1500. It does not go up and down during idling, however. May this be related to my starting difficulties...??

//woolfie
 

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Perhaps the idle control valve (or wiring to it) isn't working properly. It should idle at about 800 rpm.

When I forgot to reconnect the idle control valve my car was hard to start. I had to turn the engine over more than usual.

Jonathan.
 

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Originally posted by woolfie:
[qb]idle seems to be a bit irregular. Sometimes it idles at slightly under 1000r/m, sometimes it is at 1500. It does not go up and down during idling, however. May this be related to my starting difficulties...??

//woolfie [/qb][/b]
It's possible that this is related, and it's easy enough to clean the idle control valve on an '89 car. The valve is right there on-top of the engine just at the rear of the cam cover.It looks like a small cylinder, about three inches long (from memory). It just requires a small spanner to undo the jubilee clips around the air hoses and a plug coupler to undo. Spray through with some carb cleaner to clear any sticky deposits and all should be well.

I had to do this around once every six months or so when I had my '90 CD, just to keep the idle sweet.

Nick.
 

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Woolfie, the non-return valve is on top of the fuel tank. On yours, it should be a plastic right-angled valve in the fuel return line.

They're cheap enough but can be a pig to fit - see this thread for details.
 

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You might want to clean out your throttle body with carb cleaner, butterfly could be clogged with carbon.

Could also be the throttle switch or it's connection. (black box on throttle body). If this fails, the ECU won't know to set the idle map.

pins 1-2 should be 0 ohms at idle.
 

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on TOP of the fuel tank...? Do I have to lower/remove the fuel tank to get to the valve?[/b]
No. Take out the hinged section of flooring in the boot.
The fixed wooden flooring in front of it is fastened to the car by two screws (or bolts). Remove these and slide it towards you and out.
The fuel tank connections live under the oval shaped cover that you'll see underneath. Just prise it off and you can get at the connectors and the pump. Be careful, though - at that age, these plastic pipes and connectors can get a bit brittle.
 

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Woolfie, you should be able to get a garage to test the fuel pressure for you fairly easily. They T in a pressure gauge, check the pressure while the car is running, then stop the engine and see if it holds or drops off.

May be worth getting that done (as well as trying the other things suggested) before trying to change the non-return valve.
 
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