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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
...last night; work totalling:

Head gasket
Timing cover gasket
Timing chain tensioner
exhaust manifold gasket
drill out broken exhaust manifold stud
water pump
clean out AIC
MOT

work that didn't happen:
remove centre box - still planned, but doner centre section not located in time
remove intake heater plate - didn't have one!

result:
OMFG! i didn't know how much
i'd been missing out on - conditions around here are a bit greasy/drizzly today, but i wasn't expecting the 3rd gear wheelspin. my boost needle is right over to the full red but it's the sustained boost that makes the difference all of a sudden. listened to at tickover, there's no more waterpump or chain rattle, and no more from the manifold. it flew through the MOT with no help, and the mechanic who test drove it said it 'goes well' - he's not joking, and i'm wondering whether i should be suspecting that it was chipped when it got the abbott back box fitted.

Damage:
i don't know yet - they are assembling the bill as we speak - but the ball-park figure they suggested before it went in is still 'realistic'.

carl
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Is the boost needle going right to the end of the red, or just into the solid red section?[/b]
It goes right to the end of the red (optimax and cold, damp weather contributing?), and I'm not that keen to take my eyes off the road at full boost at the moment, but I'd swear it was overboosting if it wasn't for the sustained shove (rather than 'peaky')and the fact that the computer doesn't shut my fun down!

I'm ashamed of my driving, because to avoid spinning wheels at the top of second, I'm making progress in a series of small throttle squeezes until I can get into third, and even then I can't go WOT until the boost had climbed, for fear of wheel spin.

I made a girly 'gasp' noise to myself from the
last night when I got traction in third gear

Carl
 

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Sounds as if you need a LSD - I really find it hard to spin my 280BHP Aero in 3rd, cos the power is going through both wheels -- Antony

Actually it's because it's going to ONE wheel, the wheel that gets traction. Open diffs transfer the same power to both wheels, so if one slips and can't deliver any power to the road, the other one doesn't deliver any either. Limited slip will allow a certain amount more power to go to just one wheel in case the other has insufficient traction.

Cheers,
Dubbya
 

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Sorry Adrian - I should have been clearer - I've a Quaife LSD, which does drive both wheels.

To quote from their literature:

"The QUAIFE Differential powers both drive wheels under nearly all conditions, instead of just one.

With an ordinary open differential, standard on most cars, a lot of precious power is wasted during wheel spin under acceleration. This happens because the open differential shifts power to the wheel with less grip, along the path of least resistance.

The QUAIFE, however, does just the opposite. It senses which wheel has better grip, and biases the power to that wheel. It does this smoothly and constantly, and without ever completely removing power from the other wheel.

In cornering, while accelerating out of a turn, the QUAIFE biases greater power to the outside wheel, reducing inside-wheel spin. This allows the driver to begin accelerating earlier, exiting the corner at a higher speed."
 

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Abbott are the UK suppliers for the Quaiffe diffs for Saabs.

On it's own it's not cheap at about £700 excl VAT & fitting, but Abbott will fit it and undertake a (limited) refurb of your box for around £900-1000 +VAT IIRC, which is actually very good value as a package.
 

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Originally posted by ylee coyote:
[qb]I can second marke's comment..the best thing I had done to my car to date.... [/qb][/b]
It certainly gives the car far more confidence when accelerating and braking, especially on bends.

It's a lovely feeling to boot the car on a long roundabout or slip road and feel the car wanting to tighten the curve as the power comes in. The exact opposite of the other 2.3T I boot
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
But what about the tales I've heard about 9000s with LSDs breaking driveshafts?

Do I have to pay for a whole strengthened drivetrain to cope?

Or resign myself to the Tuned Aero mantra 'put money aside for gearbox rebuilds', and add driveshafts to the list of consumables?

Carl
 

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Originally posted by Swapped my 9-5 for a 9000 Aero:


result:
OMFG! i didn't know how much    
   i'd been missing out on - conditions around here are a bit greasy/drizzly today, but i wasn't expecting the 3rd gear wheelspin.

carl[/b]
I just got my Aero back from having it's gearbox reconditioned and a new clutch. I know exactly how you feel, after driving round in a 1.3 F**d fiesta, the Aero is just fantastic!!!
- and wheel spin in 3rd is a common problem, it makes me laugh when the 'non-turbo' gang go on about why we bother with a Turbo!

I was so happy (and it was so dirty) when I got it back that I had to wash it IN THE DARK!!!:


Mark
 
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