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Following on from my recent posts about difficulty in selecting reverse...........looking at the worst case scenario, is a box job tricky, hideous, not too bad. I've done about twenty different FWD clutch jobs and it seems to me that on the Saab there's a shedload of stuff to remove.

Does the box have to be lowered on to the floor? Will in not come upwards and out?

Just musing at the moment but I don't fancy a bill for more dosh than I paid for the car and I have another car so I wouldn't need it back together in a day. How many hours do Saab reckon for a Clutch job? The car is a 93000 miler and I reckon it's the original clutch so it's a chance to chane the 3 parts and the slave cylinder at the same time.
 

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Hardest part is aligning the center drive axle to the axle support, while fitting the trans to the engine. Wouldn't be such a big deal if it wasnt for that stupid little metal sleeve over the center axle. I very much recommend an assistant around atleast when removing and reattaching. Also attach the center axle to the "axle support"/engine side when putting the trans back on, makes it much easier.

-Mike
 

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There is quite a lot to take off (Part of subframe etc.) but that's only nuts and bolts - the most annoying bit can be undoing any rusty bolts holding the arch liner on. Once it's all out access is really good. I second the advice of an assistant when getting it all lined up again though.
 

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As noted above, the left hand subframe is lowered and the gearbox is then lowered to the floor and dragged out. Second time round it took me half a day to remove. Used an engine crane to lower it (nothing else at hand). Removal is not too difficult.
Some things from what I remember from about 3 years ago - check the alignment of the gear lever before removing so it can be set up the same later, anti roll bar clamp to subframe mounting bolt at the rear was difficult to remove since very tight and no room for tools, when you split the LH drive shaft joint at the gearbox end have something to catch the grease that drops out of the gaiter, keeping the new release bearing on the input shaft is not easy (kept dropping off), make sure the left hand steering rack mounting bolt is done tight or there will be a worrying knock when turning at low speed, aligning the clutch so the gearbox goes back easily, bleeding the clutch requires a pressure system such as Gunsons easibleed and do not let the reservoir fluid level go down much since the clutch part does not hold much fluid and soon runs out.
 
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