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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
on and off it has been difficult selecting 1st /2 nd...its as if the h gate is shrunk width wise
sometimes you lose them completely but can be got back if you wiggle it quickly side to side....

I vaugly remember a thread on this..

can anyone cast some light on this ?
 

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Hi all

I have a very similar problem with most notably 3rd gear I tend to take it very easy when changing up and try to avoid using it when changing down. I think it will require some work soon and would also appreciate some advise and thoughts on the subject.

Thanks

Jon
 

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I think BillJ is on the right track. I had trouble selecting gears last year, tried adjusting the gear lever linkage but did no good. Took it to my garage and the rubber linkage showed up right away.

HTH

Regardsd,
Keith.
 

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Ylee,

get a cub to move the lever from side to side (or select 5th/reverse and see if the lever will move left easily).

Almost certainly the rubber joint

ECP sell them cheap, and cable ties can work as a good stop gap (or did for me for 1000 miles 2 years ago when on Holiday)

Andrew
 

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Originally posted by ylee coyote:
[qb]looks quite akward to fit
any tips ?[/qb][/b]
Well, having adjusted the linkage alignment after a gearbox rebuild (should have been done before I got the car back), I'm confident I could do it from above. It would be a bit tight and very much a fingertip job, though. An 8mm spanner and 13mm spanner should be all you need.

Yours is '94 or newer, yes?

Pop it in 4th gear, remove the plastic plug from the top of the gearbox and drop a screwdriver into it - wriggle it a bit to line up the holes inside. 4mm diameter will be the best fit - I actually use a 4mm brake pad pin from a previous car (can't remember which one). Make sure it's something that can't drop all the way into the gearbox. This will lock the gearbox precisely in 4th gear to give an accurate alignment.



Undo the 13mm pinch bolt and 8mm through-bolt and remove the old joint. Fit the new one and refit the 8mm bolt. Mate the linkage rod to the other end, lift up the boot at the base of the gear lever, place the lever in approximately the 4th gear position and then fit a 4mm screwdriver (or whatever) down through the hole on the base of the lever, into the hole underneath.



Tighten the pinch bolt, remove both pins and check that you can select all gears correctly. Refit the gear lever boot and the plastic plug on the gearbox.

I've heard it said that access is better from the right-hand wheel-arch, having removed the liner, and also from underneath. I can't imagine either approach is significantly better than tackling it from above, but I'll be interested to hear otherwise.
 

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Originally posted by Scaero (ecopower stg0):
[qb]BillJ:-  Is that Rust!!!! [/qb][/b]
Could be. Looks to me as though the previous owner liked to eat and drink on the move and wasn't too fussy where the slops and crumbs went
 

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Originally posted by ylee coyote:
[qb]that looks like coke phosphoric acid enhanced corrosion    :eek:        :eek:   [/qb][/b]
Never mind that - you're supposed to be looking at where I've stuck the screwdriver
 

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Originally posted by Mark E:
[qb]Except that phosphoric acid is the priamary component of rust removers such as Naval Jelly...[/qb][/b]
True, and iron phosphate is black(-ish), not orange.

Reckon it's just rust...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
you are right
however my postulation was phosphoric acid enhanced corrosion
as you know these items are galvanised and as such it is the zinc turning to zinc oxide which slows down the ferrous elements going to a higher oxidation state
if the phosphoric acid reacts with the zn to zn phospate
which effectively removes it locally it will then expose the fe to oxidation and hence rust
I rest my case
 

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Good point, ylee. Must remember not to drink Coke in the car.

Wait a minute - I never do anyway...
Then again, I reckon the previous owner practically lived in the car (over 35K miles/year) so it's probably down to him.

Anyway, at least I can still select all my gears
 
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