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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Firstly, I am about to change the inner CV rubber gaiter on a 2.3 turbo griffin '93. Can anyone take me through the process step by step, will I need to split the ball joints, how can I best detach the strut (as it says in haynes manual) and what will I need to change, i.e will I have to change the hub nuts (like it says in the haynes manual)and my torque wrench only goes to 210 lb/ft and I need to tighten the hub nut to 280 according to haynes manual. My gaiter I purchased from Euro CP is GK branded and comes with all clips I require. thanks.

Also quickly, I am losing coolant quite quickly, it appears to be leaking from a rubber hose type thing that has a lid at the end (sounds mad I know, but the best way to describe!) that pokes from the bottom of the bulkhead underneath the back of the engine, it is just above some pipes and leaks onto them, what could this be? and if I use rad weld will it work, and will it damage my colling system if I use it.
Cheers again.
 

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The easiest way to change the inner rubber gaiter is to remove the complete driveshaft together with the steering knuckle assembly.
Remove the brake pads. Undo the caliper and tie it up out of the way. Seperate the track rod end ball joint. Unbolt the lower ball joint from the control arm, unbolt the steering knuckle from the strut. If you have ABS remove the sensor if you can( I've always had to leave them in place and undo the cable from the other end.) Undo the hose clip on the inner driver and the whole assembly can be drawn out, be prepared for a load of grease to fall out.
Remove the circlip of the end of the shaft and the inner spider can be removed (may require a 3 legged puller). Finallt undo the clip on the gaiter and pull it off. Fit the new gaiter and reverse the process to rebuild remembering to fill the joint with new grease.
 

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Radweld - in general yes this works, it can stop 'drips' and water seeping from joints. I have used it a number of times through the years and it must have saved me a fortune. However, I have no proof, but I also suspect it could encourage build up of gunge in the cooling system. I don't think it would physically damage anything and I would use radweld on my cars.
 

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Do NOT use Radweld. Why? Because you have a Turbo model & that relies heavily on the coolant to cool it down. (Oddly enough).

JFP is right about the gunge. If this starts to circulate around the cooling system & then gets stuck in a bottleneck what happens in that area? It becomes restricted doesn't it? Saab decided the bores required to effectively cool the system. Do you want to take the chance with your wallet & start to block off the system? Why compromise? If you have a problem with your cooling system then fix it. Don't bodge it. You know it makes sense.

Just my 2p worth
Mal.
 

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I forgot about the leak when I replied yesterday. The rubber hose thing is the drain from the compartment behind the false bulkhead which houses the wiper assembly and all the heater bits and A/C if you have it. I would reckon that the leak is most likely from the heater matrix. Replacement is the only real cure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Will I need to change the hub nut for a new one like it says in the haynes manual, and will I really have to split the balljoint as it will mean me having to get a balljoint splitter as I dont want to risk bodging anything!

Also how bigger job is changing the matrix, I know on a renault 25 I had in the past it was a nightmare, and shouldn't I have a coolant leak inside the car underneath the dash if the matrix is duff?
 

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You won't need to undo the hub nut if you follow the instructions I gave above which unbolts the complete steering knuckle. hub and driveshaft assembly.
You will need a splitter for the ball-joint at the track rod end though. They are not expensive and if you intend doing much of your own maintenance it will be money well spent over the years.

As for changing the matrix, it's not such a difficult job, just fiddly with a lot of bits in the way. Disregard the instructions in the Haynes book about removing the bonnet.

Whether coolant leaks into the car or not may depend on where on the matrix the leak is. It is certainly worth lifting the false bulkhead cover for a better look. It may simply be that one of the hoses needs the clamp tightening or there may be a split in a hose.
 

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one trick to splitting a balljoint, and often more effective than a splitter, is to hammer the housing the balljoint spindle sits in. This has the effect of breaking the rust and the joint usually pops out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for replies, Derek can you list what I need to complete the job, I will tell you what I have got at the moment:
Inner CV gaiter/grease/circlips, Torque wrench, Balljoint splitter (which I will buy) any other special tools/items needed? Also I have noticed of late that the car over cools i.e rarely gets to working temperatureunless I get stuck stationary for a while, it always hovers on the quarter heat mark. Common sense tells me that the car should overheat with coolant loss, not underheat or is that too obvious!
 

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The tools you mention should be fine. I assume you already have a ggod set of metric spanners and socket set. You will need 1/2" drive sockets for the heavier stuff associated wth the suspension but for much of the work under the bonnet 3/8" or even 1/4" drive sets are fine especially where access is limited.
A low engine temperature may be due to a dodgy thermostat, easy to change.
 
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