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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, am having a problem with the rad boiling over as the fan doesn't cut in on my '91 9000 16v. Looked under the bonnet and all the fan fuses seem Ok but is there supposed to be two relays in the small fuse box? I have one (the fan) but theres another (empty) space for a "high speed fan" (I think). or will it just be the thrmo switch?
 

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I had similar problem recently on my '91 ( 92 model ). Mine has only a single speed fan therefore no 'high speed' relay. I expect yours is the same. A double check is that if you have a two speed fan system there is a resistor fitted to the curved part of the radiator shroud. With single speed fan this is not there, but the shroud has the flange and two holes for fitting it. The fan temp sensor / switch has three wires too, but only two for single speed.
So what is wrong? I found that the problem on mine was a break in the wire from the relay to the temp sensor / switch. As this was somewhere under the radiator I ran a new wire from just on the relay side of the large round multi-connector ( behind the headlamp ) to the temp sensor / switch. This open circuit wire is I understand a common problem on '91 / '92's as the loom is too short.
Frst you need to check the temp sensor is working, and that the fan works. If you need more info about the connector pin numbers that I found, ask again and I'll look them up.
 

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Had the bonnet up for battery charging so checked the wiring connections.
The 'pick' line for the relay goes to relay pin 2.Remove relay and the socket pin is the right centre, looking down on the socket.
This line goes to pin 7 on the round multiway connector behind headlamp; a blue wire. If you look at the connector in situ. pin 1 is top left, with 2,3 and 4 below.
The next row ( to the right ) has pin 5 at top, so 7 is 3rd from top.
The connector can be released by grasping the 'knurled' body and 'unscrewing'giving access to the male and female pins.
The loom then goes under the rad to a two pin connector down under the other headlamp.
When I pulled this connector on mine it disintigrated although this was not where the fault lay. One pin from here is your 'relay pick' and the other to earth. Take care with the leads to the thermo-switch in the rad. as the heat may have made them fragile.
All as is on my car; can't guarantee yours is same.
I pulled the wiring diagram from the Townsend site but it is different from my car in several respects. Very useful though.
Let us know how you get on.
 

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And vice versa. And VERY ANOYING.
I had drained battery to zero already 2 times, because of my fan is not cuting OUT. Or let's say it is cutting in at somewhere above +30C and is not cutting out until temp under bonnet falls back to this value.... As there is a bit hot outside this summer, it usualy takes up to 5-6 hours to cool things back enough, or to drain the battery out...

Is there any possibility to adjust things? Or the best possibility is just to replace the (?faulty?) temp sensor?

BR
Dzintars 9000CS23T
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Cheers Harvey, will have a look at that at the week-end.

Just my luck, the Clutch Master cyl has decided to start to die on me as well! Bloody things!

Might be selling it soon!
 

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dev. ( and Nufis )Mines an auto.
Btw.ref. the fan prob. The fault I described was failure to pick the relay. You could have a 'relay picks but fails to power the fan'problem but think the former more likely.

Nufis. Your problem sounds odd.I suggest you try and meter the thermo-switch while you have the fan in it's 'failing to stop' condition.( having allowed a reasonable time for it to stop; say 5 or 10 minutes.) Take care of the spinning fan though. Make sure you remove your necktie.
If it is the thermo-switch still made then sounds like a new one is needed.
I'm thinking you may have a sticking relay perhaps, which stays on after the thermo-switch has opened.Not very likely though imho.
Does your car have air-con? If yes, there is a fan relay in the air-con circuit somewhere. Not too clear on the operation of this. I think it may come on if air-con goes to too high a pressure. That's probably not much help but worth knowing it's there.
 

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Heh, I'm no more using necktie, but still have long hair
What refards thermo-switch, guys at he SAAB garage said they have changed it to brand new (imho it doesn't look like a new one. or if they have changed it at all ). Anyway, I'm booked in for tomorrow morning, to recheck things. (On other hand, the weekend was not so warm, and all was ok).
Talking on ACC - Yes it has the similar, but pressure switch. (I have made several posts, and replies on this, because I had gone through problems with this one too).
The more interesting question is - if the outer-temperature sensor (which usualy gives wrong readings - because of its placement) could influence the cutting in/out of the fan? Looking at schematics I could tell it (fan cirquity) has some feedback (or feed-forward) linkage to ACC ECU!?!

BR
Dzintars 9000CS23T
 

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Nufis,
I had a bit of 'brain fade' with my last post. I ignored that you said fan cuts in at 'somewhere above +30c'.
It shouldn't cut in till about +90c ( engine water temp ). So seems very much like thermo switch fault if cutting in much below that.( if you have ACC you could run with it off to see if there is any difference to the symptoms).
Btw, cars for certain markets have a time delay relay which limits the running time of the fan after the engine has stopped.I don't know if yours has.
You said 'Looking at schematics I could tell it (fan cirquity) has some feedback (or feed-forward) linkage to ACC ECU!?!'

Do you mean that you have a schematic, or that you could read one if you did?

You can find one ( some ) at www.townsendimports.com

Be aware that they may not exactly match your car.
 

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Do you mean that you have a schematic, or that you could read one if you did? - I meant that one from Townsend, and as I remember there was some wire going directly to ACC ECU....

But now its over - As I said I was booked in for recheck at SAAB garage today... THEESE DAMN... STUPID... IDIOTS... - They have charged me for changing that device I was last there, BUT THEY HAD NOT CHANGED IT.... (as I alredy said that device didn't look like new after "change"). The BRAND NEW UNIT is there now, and works like

BR
Dzintars 9000CS23T
 
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