Saabscene Saab Forum - Saab Technical Information Resource banner
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
545 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Happy new year to everybody.

Yesterday the nice men at the RAC brought my car (2l LPT CDE 1993, 152k miles) home when the fuel pump failed. The car would not start when I was about to return home. The RAC man was impressive, carburettor cleaner squirted into the inlet manifold and engine ran which showed the problem was not ignition, then traced back to the pump and found 12v there so demonstrated the pump was at fault.

Have just bought a new pump from German and Swedish. This is just the pump for £69 and not the complete unit that fits in the tank. They had a choice of an 8mm or 6mm Walbro but only the 8mm was in stock so I am not sure if this is the correct one yet until I get the old one out and G&S could not tell from the chassis no.

Has anyone else rebuilt the fuel pump unit and can give any advice. I have done a search and the plastic pipes need a bit of care but is there anything else ? I will be doing the job tonight or tomorrow (Sat 3/1/04).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
763 Posts
Don't waste time with the factory fitted plastic pipe leading from the actual pump to the 'T' connector, just cut away at the nozzle ends and use new petrol grade rubber/plastic pipe and worm connectors for new connection.
Also, when pulling the feed pipe plastic valves from the pump unit, use gentle grip with a plier and slowly 'pull & twist' out. When replacing, apply a film of petroleum jelly to the valve rings and they will slip in like a dream!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
545 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well that is another job done - if I had realised it was a common failure at high miles I would have done it a long time ago rather than wait for the car to break down. It was not too difficult but here are a few notes to help anyone else who may have to replace the fuel injection pump.

The pump was a Walbro one from German and Swedish £69. This was just for the pump and does not include the level sender, filter bucket and filter which were all in good condition anyway. Prices elsewhere may include these parts. The one removed was a Walbro 6mm outlet, AOS006, 4021358, 28792-2B and the one fitted was a Walbro 5CA400, 34302-1B, 8mm outlet. I have e-mailed Walbro to find out if there is any difference but so far the car goes ok.

Following the advice from Mutungi I had already obtained some 7.6mm fuel injection rubber hose and clips from Halfords (£7) which was needed since removing the plastic pump hose is not possible without damage. All the O-rings were ok to be re-used.

Brief job description -
1. Remove rear seat backrest, boot floor, metal strip, oval cover over fuel pump.

2. The battery should be disconnected but being a CDE it needs to be connected to allow the boot to be unlocked so when the fuel tank was open I always had the boot and rear doors open for ventilation and did the job outside (and avoided any other sparks). The interior and door lights were on (job done during dark) and this helped to drain the battery along with the previous attempts to start the car.

3. Remove the plastic cover over the pump and disconnect the wiring plug (one with the red clip which needs to be slid out first).

4. Mark the large fastening ring with white paint/tippex in line with the mark on the tank so when refastened it is tight enough (should be 55 lb.ft.f).

5. Undo the small torx screw on the yellow hose retaining clip but do not remove the clip - saves catching fingers on pliers.

6. Vacuum the area so a pile of dirt does not drop into the fuel tank later.

7. Being careful, use pliers to slightly twist and pull up the fuel pipes from the pump unit. Do not bend and only grip at the end or according to the experience of others the right angle fittings will break. When refitting a smear of grease on the O-rings helps them slip in easily.

8. Next undo the large ring. Having no suitable tools I made up a U-shaped tool from 20mm x 4mm bar (£2 from B&Q) to fit into the slots on the ring - similar to the official Saab tool. This was jubillee cliped to a long bar. This started to bend but using a hammer to tap a screw driver against it next to a slot and the ring moved. Before refitting the ring was cleaned up and WD40 used to lubricate it and the tool was just adequate then.

9. Lift out the pump unit, allowing petrol to drain out. Some will remain in the filter bucket so tip out outside away from ignition sources. Remove the large O-ring from the tank opening, clean up and then cover the hole to reduce fumes. I also refit the boot floor oval cover to keep fumes out of the car.

10. To get at the pump, remove the bucket (the ejector at the bottom is a 90 degree turn to pull out) and filter basket, noting how all the bits go together. Pull off the wires from the pump. Cut the plastic hose from the pump and the T piece.

11. Use a new piece of rubber hose for the plastic and then fit everything back together. The pump unit top line should be lined up with the line on the tank. Do up the ring so its mark lines up. There will be a gap under it for the plastic cover.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top