Couple of suggestions:
1) Do you have a tow bar fitted on the car, if so, how many connections are there in the plug ?
If it's only for a 7 - pin plug, then go no further as all 7 pins are associated with switched lighting circuits (what we're looking for is a connection that directly feeds from the battery, typically what caravan towbars have for example, to feed the caravan fridge while parked up)
if you do have a caravan type tow bar and you know that it's fully wired up then google a wiring diagram for the tow bar to identify which pin is the permanent (un-switched) feed, and you have a means available to feed 12 volts into your battery, via a spare battery or another vehicle - it's effectively the same as a jump start except you're not actually starting - all youre trying to do is get some power into your car...leave the donor battery connected for a minute or so, until you see the red alarm LED blinking away merrily on your dash, leave it connected while you get the car door open and once you've done that, safely disconnect the donor battery.
You'll need donor battery, jump leads, a metre or so of bog standard domestic 2.5 mm twin & earth cable.
Separate the cable cores from inside the outer insulation , and at one end, strip about 3 inches of insulation from both cable cores for your jump leads clamps to have something to securely bite on.
At one of the other ends of the 2.5 cable, strip about 1 inch of insulation. Using needle nosed pliers, fold the bare core over into a 'V' shape, which you can insert into the correct socket on the towbar wiring connector. That will ultimately be connected to the POSITIVE terminal of the donor battery.
On the other 2.5 mm core, strip about 1 inch or so and (assuming you've correctly identify which pin in the tow area connector is GROUND), then make another 'V' and insert it into the GROUND socket in the towbar connector (alternatively, you can fish around to get a good GROUND connection on the car's metalwork - wire brush maybe to clean up metal)
NOTE : ITS IMPORTANT TO ENSURE THAT ALL POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE WIRING, JUMP LEAD CLAMPS ETC ARE KEPT WELL APART FROM EACH OTHER. ELECTRICAL SHORT CIRCUIT WILL RESULT AND AS IT IS A DIRECT, UNFUSED CONNECTION THAT IS BEING USED, NO ELECTRICAL PROTECTION IS AVAILABLE AND HIGH CURRENT LEVELS IN A SHORT CIRCUIT SITUATION CAN BE DANGEROUS
NOTE ONLY MAKE THE FINAL CONNECTION TO THE DONOR BATTERY WHEN YOU ARE SATISFIED THAT ALL RISK OF SHORT CIRCUIT HAS BEEN ELIMINATED....DOUBLE CHECK !!
If the tow are option is not available to you, then as previously suggested by others, getting under the car to access the starter motor connection is the next option you have.
i don't know which car you have, but you may well find that it can be easier to access the alternator output connection. It's basically part of the same cable you'd be trying to attach to on the starter motor. See attached picture for what the alternator connection should look like.
Whichever method you use, exactly the same notes as above, apply.
SHORT CIRCUITS ARE DANGEROUS !!!
good luck, hope you get in without locksmith etc
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