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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm sure I saw threads on this recently, but I couldn't seem to hit them with a search, so apologies for repeating.

Trying to fit my 3" JT system (cat back, original downpipe etc. for the moment).

Do I need to use paste (e.g. Firegum) in the clamped slide-over joints?

The whole thing seems to be about one or two inches too long by the time I get the rear hangers! How can I ensure the joints have pushed together to their maximum possible extent without damaging anything?
 

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I had the same problem when fitting my JT exhaust. The reccommendation on length (from SES at the last service) was to cut an inch or so out of the adaptor to the cat as the rubber hangers are being strained out of alignment and could fail. (Must do it when the weather gets better). I hammered in the joints with a block of wood but the tail pipe is still level with the bumper viewed from above. I had very slight leaks from the slots (system was put together dry) and just used some exhaust paste on these. It has not been any trouble and passed the MOT OK.
The only other thing I need to do is paint the steel support straps welded to the system - these were very red with rust in a about 2 months.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Alan... very useful. I remembered after posting that Bill J has some stuff on his site about this, but it didn't seem to specifically address my problem.

I did notice the bit about high-temp clear laquer though. What did you use? I guess I would need to clean off the protective oil first with some kind of solvent cleaner.
 

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I should have taken more notice of Bills comments, but the brackets looked to have a similar finish to the rest. Not sure how hot they get, I was just going to use Hammerite paint I have in the garage but perhaps I need to rethink (or try the touch test after a run).
 

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I think from memory that the 9000 exhaust joints are inherently better designed than the GM900 ones - I had real trouble joining my JT pipe to the original exhaust system - must have done the joint about 6 times with exhaust paste - in the end I used 'No More Nails' for the joint and had no more leaks - highly reccommended by me. I would imagine that this would also work on the joints where the pipes slide into one another if smeared around the joint before putting it together.

Mike
 
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Just fitted complete JT 3" sport system to my 9-5 Aero. Went together fine with exhaust paste. I cleaned up all welds and both boxes and sprayed them with high temp paint to keep rust at bay (hopefully)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I've been scratching my head trying to figure out what to paint bits with. I'm not sure what temperatures the exhaust will get up to - hotter at the front than the back, obviously. Also, the mounts must get warm, but not too hot.

Most paint doesn't say what temperature range it will survive. I do know the the VHT paint needs to get up to about 300C in order to cure, and I can't imagine that most of the exhaust will get that hot, from the cat back. Even engine paint needs to get pretty hot - 200C maybe.

What I do have though is cold galvanising spray, aka weldable zinc primer. I know this can survive heat, since you can weld through it, but it also doesn't need to cure. It doesn't need to be overpainted either.

Question is - will I get any complication because the exhaust is aluminium plated?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Answer - no I called up Ambersil who make one of the sprays - possibly even the one I actually have - and asked them. They got back to me just now to tell me I will have no complication. It's good to about 600C, doesn't need to cure, and is designed as a corrosion inhibitor, so it sounds perfect.
 
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