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Discussion Starter #42
Just changed my 2 front dash speakers (4 speaker system) and made no real noticeable difference at all in my opinion. Fitted JBL JTO327.
 

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Nor does changing the rears.

I put 6x9's in place of the 4" jobs, makes very little difference.

Sounds like you are walking the same path as me, only one practical option, fitting AMP1

Get in quick.....

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SAAB-Amp-Bypass-2004...=item414fedd81a

I don't know why he is calling it a Bypass, he is clearly showing an AMP1, his description isn't too good either... be certain of what he is selling...
 

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Just changed my 2 front dash speakers (4 speaker system) and made no real noticeable difference at all in my opinion. Fitted JBL JTO327.[/b]

they're the wrong ohmage,dash needs to be 4 ohm there only 2ohm..
 

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Discussion Starter #45
speakers

For some reason write up says 2ohm but box has 4ohm on it? think they will still sound rubbish regardless and amp only way forward. Can i just drive rear shelf 6x9's if i got the amp rather than installing front door speakers.
 

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Can't see any reason why not.

Remember you will lose the Front/Rear Fader as the system will believe both sets are in the front.


I mentioned earlier, the AMP1 is only half the battle, there are some fibre Optic cables to mess about with as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
I'm praying you say just one cable from the head unit to the amp! is the amp outputs like any other where u just hook up the speaker wires
 

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No, not just one cable. It's a bit more complicated than that.

I did write a guide for someone once, I will see if I can dig it out later.

the AMP outputs are already there. Look under the passenger seat, left hand side nearest the door.
there is a plug already wired with Power and speaker wires leading into the doors.

It's just the optical cable which needs fitting.
 

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Right, here we go!!

It really isn't as bad as it looks. I wrote this for Dean (another guy who successfully did this install).

It's a bit wordy, but once you start getting in amongst it, things become much clearer.

Most of it was written from memory but there is enough to get you through with only minimal help.

I have included part numbers for those bits you can't source from anywhere other than the dealers.
The little connectors (housings) are only a couple of quid each, the Optical cables are typically expensive on par with the rest of Saab's "fleece them" policy.

Try to get all the its from Ebay from breaking cars etc, but where you get stuck, a trip to the dealers!



Parts

Part Number: 12757370 or 12800531
Description: AMP1

Part Number: 12801051
Description: Optical cable (L=1520 MM) (Radio system Premium/Prestige, Between ICM and left A-pillar)

Part Number: 12791220 x3
Description: Connector housing

Part Number: 12791237 x2
Description: Contact housing

Part Number : 12801037
Description : Optical cable - 4D, L=1030 mm, Between AMP1 and left A-pillar


Part Number: 12801051
This will go between the EHU unit behind the Air Con panel, down to the left hand A-Pillar in front of the passenger door hinges under the glovebox

Part Number: 12791220 x3
One of these will go at the left hand A-Pillar, the other will go behind the EHU
You need 3 of these.
• One fits in the plug at AMP1
• One goes at the connection by the A-Pillar
• One goes in another connector behind the EHU

Part Number: 12791237 x2
One of these will fit in the plug you have for the Amplifier (AMP1) under the passenger seat.
Another will go at the left hand A-Pillar, Another will go behind the EHU
You need 2 of these.
• One goes by the A-Pillar to join up the cables
• The other goes behind the EHU (this is the bit where we change the O-Bus). You only use one half of this thing but I don't think they sell a single connector housing.

Part Number: 12801037
This will go between the AMP1 under the seat, to the left hand A-Pillar.
I didn't buy this one so it may be worth checking it includes BOTH cables. You need a feed to and from the AMP1.


To do…

A Pair of Optical wires (12801037) from AMP1 plug to be routed to A-pillar near to passengers left ankle, remove plastic cover and scuff plates to reveal big connector, two optical cables taped up next to the block coming down from the dash.

Optical cable (12801051) to run (only one wire this time) from the A-Pillar to behind the EHU by removing the glove box (4 screws) and feeding the cable behind up to the EHU. Remove ACC panel, just pulls out, slide something in the side and prise it gently out.

Once that is out, there are just 2 spring clips holding the EHU & CD player in place, push those inwards and pull the EHU out. Pull out an optical lead from the EHU, connect it to one of the new optical cables you just ran, and plug the other one you just ran into the (now empty) socket in the EHU


1. Fit Speakers

2. Slide Passenger Seat fully forward

3. Undo rear bolts securing seat (very tight!)

4. Tilt seat forward (lodge something underneath to hold seat tilted). You now have decent access to the AMP1 plug

5. Fit Connector housing (12791220) to the end of Optical Cable (12801037). Remove a little blue tab, fit the cables and refit the tab to secure the cables in place. Fit the connector into the AMP1 plug and fit it into AMP1

6. Secure AMP1 with single screw at rear of AMP into car floor. (I didn’t bother as I didn’t have the screw). Refit the Passenger Seat (use loctite if you have any, or give the bolts a good bit of welly)

7. Run Optical Cables (12801037) under scuff plate and up to connector block under glovebox

8. Locate the taped up Optical Cables next to the connector (I missed them the first couple of times of looking. Mine were taped with black tape against a black loom so it’s difficult to find, look for a lump in the loom).

9. Fit Contact Housing (12791237) to the end of the cables you ran under the scuff plate. You need to remove a little tab, insert the cables and re-insert the little tab to secure them in place.

10. Remove The ACC Panel and EHU

11. Locate another taped up loose end of Optical Cable behind the EHU (the other end of one of those found by the connector under the glovebox).

12. Once found, pull off the little black rubber cap protecting the end of the optical cable (this goes for all the optical cables!).

13. Shine a torch down the end of the one located behind the EHU and see which one has the light coming out of down by the A-Pillar by the block

14. Fit a Connector Housing (12791220) to the one with the light coming out of. Check the orientation of this. This cable must lead down to AMP1 position 2 (check the O-Bus diagram). The worse thing that will happen is that it won’t work, so just swap them around afterwards if you get it wrong.

15. Remove the Glove Box, screws at bottom (door closed) and Top (door open, also one in the centre rear of glovebox). Withdraw glovebox, pull off the air con tube and light connector.

16. Run the new Optical Cable (12801051) behind the glove box up to the gap behind the EHU, fit one end into the second Connector housing position by the A-Pillar block and fit the two together (connector and contact housings)

17. Remove the Optical Connector which is fitted to Position 1 on the EHU Plug and fit a Contact Housing (12791237) to it.

18. Fit a Connector Housing (12791220) to the other end of the cable you just ran from the A-Pillar and join it to the one you just removed from the EHU.

19. Fit the loose cable you found behind the EHU into the (now vacant) position 1 in the EHU Plug

20. If you leave off the AMP1 plug until now, you should now see a flashing red light (about 1 per second) on one of the optical cables.

21. Fit it all back together and power up.


NOTES:

The cables can be configured in different ways, depending how much slack you have, just try to understand that the cable from the ICM (which is currently fitted into Position 1 of the EHU), MUST lead down to Position 1 of AMP1.

Position 2 of AMP1 MUST go to Position 1 of the EHU.

A torch is very handy to check it all out before fitting it all together

If you look at the O-Bus diagram I sent with the green and red arrows. All we are doing is unplugging the cable from the bottom of the EHU, moving it down to the bottom of AMP1

Then running a new cable from the top of AMP1, to the bottom of the EHU.


The Optical cable between AMP1 and the A-Pillar come as a pair so you should have two cables taped together.

The Optical cable going from the A-Pillar to the EHU is a single cable.


Have a look at post #4 on this thread

http://www.saabscene.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=31646430

You can see some Optical Cables with the black rubber caps protecting the tip, make sure you remove them to let the light through lol!!



USEFUL PICTURES

O-BUS
You currently have the RED circuit. It is this which needs to change to the GREEN circuit (and why you need extra cables)



Speaker Diagram.
Not necessary but will help you identify which wires go to the speakers



AMP1 Plug (under the passenger seat)




Some random picutres













Simples :)
 

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Discussion Starter #50
wow! Thanks very much for that its really appreciated. 50/50 if I do this or go for a new flip screen in place of the cd player
 

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I have the facelift dash, but I think the audio issue is the same once you're speaker-side of the amp.

I seriously considered a JL Audio Cleansweep, since trying to upgrade the 7 speaker system was a nightmare due to the limited frequencies to each channel.

A point to note about the door speakers: I do not believe they are full range, so are not much use as a source. I ended up using the door channels for the sub and rear channel for front components (door and dash-top tweeters). The sound had guts but had a lot of detail and subtlety missing in the low and mid range (worse than the 7sp setup) - hence considering the cleansweep.

Having been unable to get sign-off from SHMBO for a Cleansweep or a Pioneer/Kenwood headunit (have bought two telescopes so far this year!), I stuck in a 200 quid head unit and the difference is remarkable. It's by far the best sound I've achieved in a car (and I've done a few).

The front doors (with a bit of soundproofing) are capable of stunningly detailed sound with good speakers.

It really is worth finding that solution.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Today I fitted some 6x9's to the rear shelf and the difference is night and day. Over the moon with how they sound and I actually have bass now and on some tracks could really feel em thumping in my chest! I've done the whole amp/sub thing in previous cars so know this is not going to win any sound offs but if it was like this from the factory then it would never have crossed my mind to upgrade the system. I know some people have not been impressed fitting 6x9's so I made sure I got a good pair, Kenwood KFC-S6972 4 ways for £50 delivered. I'd already fitted new dash speakers which made no significant difference on their own but as a unit now the whole things sounds fantastic to what it was.
 

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on the 7 speaker system,you can add 6x9s with amp using an LOC by tapping into the speaker outs on amp1 under the front left seat & it does improve the system..
The drivers seat amp connecting the door speakers (as posted below) and run the "LOC" to 6x9s. I'd like to do this, where can I get an LOC to fit this drivers seat amp?
 

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on the 7 speaker system,you can add 6x9s with amp using an LOC by tapping into the speaker outs on amp1 under the front left seat & it does improve the system..
Can you advise which wires to go for when adding the LOC on the drivers seat amp for 6x9s
.
 
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