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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Arrggh...

I was in the process of replacing the fan control thermoswitch (the one
that tells the radiator fan when to run and at what speed). The car had
been heating up when not moving, but cooling back down once moving. The fan
and relays are fine (tested).

I finally got the electrical connector apart after much work (in a very
tight and inaccessible place...), and discovered that one of the pins in
the connector was completely corroded. In fact, the pin was mostly gone
from the male end of the connector! I can't quite tell if it eroded
completely or is partially stuck in the socket. Even if it's not, there's
enough gunk in the socket to prevent or at least impede a good connection.

Any thoughts on getting this cleaned up and back together?

mike
 

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Mike, that connector comes apart very easily. There are two tabs on each side that you must spread outward. Once those tabs are spread, the side can be opened and the individual male connector can be removed. It's just a matter of finding another connector at the salvage yard and splicing it in place of the corroded one - no need to remove all the pins if only one is corroded. I'd try using a small dollop of anti-seize (copper-based - I know, I know, dissimilar metals, but the pin is a different metal than the copper wire, eh?) grease on the pin to prevent corrosion from reoccurring.
 

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Mike

I had exactly the same problem. I don't know what type of fan you have, one speed or two speed. I have a non turbo car so just a single speed fan. However the wiring of the block is set up to include the extra wiring for the high speed fan. The extra connetor in the block was un-ravaged by the effects of time, so I was able to cut and paste some the wires to use the spare connector. It was a tight squeeze to reach some of the wires though. Problem was solved and the fan cuts in again at the right point.

Gordon
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Still at it. Found a spare plug in a scrapyard (for
free, too boot!). Disassembled it and spliced in 2
of the socket connectors (one was shot, the other
was a bit grungy). Tested the crimps with a jumper -
fan ran fine at both speeds.

Installed the new thermoswitch ... and now it
leaks Doesn't seem that I can tighten it
down much more. So, now I get to partially drain
the coolant so I can check the seating more
carefully. (I tried the shortcut of just doing it
quick so as to not lose too much coolant.)

Someone needs to take away my tools...

mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ah well. Finally got it all sorted out. As usual, nothing's easy with this bloody car. As I was trying to remove the center underside panel, I found that 2 of the captive nuts were completely stripped out. So, I couldn't get the panel off to open the radiator drain.

So, I just positioned the drain pan (nice large one, luckily) under the general vicinity, unscrewed the thermoswitch and let the coolant gush. Most of it hit the pan. (I'll get the rest with the kitty litter...) Upon closer inspection, there was half of the old sealing gasket still stuck to the fitting. This was, of course, preventing a useful seal with the new thermoswitch.

Got the switch refitted, and took a drive. No sign of a leak.

I'm still not sure the fan's coming on at the right time though. How far up the gauge should the fan kick in with the stock 89 degree thermoswitch and the 2 stage fan? I would have replaced it with a cooler switch, but I haven't seen any references to one that does the 2-speed fan.

Thanks,

mike
 
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