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Hello,

I have just purchased a 1997, 900 SE Turbo at 30,000 km. I have seen through researching that it delivers 185 bhp standard. However, I have heard that I can increase the engine output up to 220/227 bhp.

In this regard, and since I want to have it done, I need to know what are all the requirements from start to finish ie; what components, fittings, changes, contacts to purchase items etc, etc.

I am proud of my purchase and want to take it to the limits. Is there any disadvantages/advantages other than what I have mentioned, not to say I hope that I will not destroy the engine, gearbox or the running gear because I drive this machine hard.

We do have a SAAB dealer in town if fine computer tunning is required and is the place I get my servicing done
.

Thanks in advance.

Ray
 

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Speedparts ECU upgrade will take you to 227 bhp but you can go beyond that if you wish and there are other suppliers - Maptun, Hirsh, Abbott etc.
If upgrading, you will almost certainly need to upgrade suspension and realistically the brakes. Exhaust system can also be improved and would be a good starting point with the upgrade as your exhaust gas temperatures will rise which would have a detrimental effect on valves etc.
Have a hunt through the preformance and 900/9-3 archives as many posts on this subject and welcome to Saabscene.

Mike
 

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Originally posted by rrakena:
[qb]In this regard, and since I want to have it done, I need to know what are all the requirements from start to finish ie; what components, fittings, changes, contacts to purchase items etc, etc.

I am proud of my purchase and want to take it to the limits. Is there any disadvantages/advantages other than what I have mentioned, not to say I hope that I will not destroy the engine, gearbox or the running gear because I drive this machine hard.[/qb][/b]
Welcome to Saabscene


If you drive your Saab hard and want take it to the limits, it's wise to upgrade suspension and brakes first.
Eibach lowering springs and Koni dampers will improve handling to a level where it's capable of handling 200+ hp.

Before tuning your engine, make sure it's in good condition. Change the oil, sparkplugs, filters, etc.

A stage 1 ECU upgrade will get you ~225 hp. This software is designed to work with a stock setup. A bigger downpipe and free flowing exhaust however, will reduce temperatures and add faster turbo spool up and extra power.

Chances of blowing up your engine are very small when using the right tuning components,it's the gearbox I'd be worried about.
 

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Considering where you are, I would start with making the car breathe cooler, and more efficiently. Lowering the car in your area might be more trouble than its worth. The front struts have soft spacers that eventually cause a knocking sound, and that's the first item I would have the dearlership replace under warranty. You'll appreciate your car even more.

The car has its advantages and disadvantages, but modifying the suspension might be a bit drastic considering your current hp/torque applications. Sure it will handle better, but lowering the car and replacing all of the struts is not going to be cheap. GM in an attempt to get the car to market.., left out a few essentials to make the car as it should have been. Modify your car in simple stages to see and feel the improvements.

I would suggest your first stage of tuning the car would be to change your air filter to a drop-in k&n type, and replace your bypass/diverter valve with something that will stand up to increased pressures from the heat expansion of the air. You might pay less than $200.00 American.

Purchasing the ECU is pretty costly as it compares to these simple modifications, at $600+ dollars on average.

My suggestion for the next stage should you decide to continue...would be to replace your intercooler with a one-pass viggen type. Your dealership should have one, but there are plenty of places to order from the internet. This is another $200 - $300 roughly, and still less than purchasing a lowering kit, or upgraded ecu.
You should be at 200+ hp with just these changes alone.

For the next stage... consider a 3 inch downpipe with/without a race cat. You'll definately see if not feel close to 215 + hp. This might cost you another $300, but worth every penny.

Then a larger rear sway bar, and steering brace from the viggen rescue kit for the car to control her out of turns from the added torque and hp gains you'll actually feel.

I would consider playing with the ECU/Engine Control Unit after you have prepared the car in stages. The stages should increase breathing, cooling, and allow your turbo to spin up quicker.

You'll see plenty of post here to help you...

Good luck.

DC (not only a member, but a modified 97 NG900 SE T owner)
 
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