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In the absence of a manual and given the time it might take for it to arrive, perhaps someone would be able to help OddComp with some more immediately constructive suggestions.

Easy to say RTFM, but SSc exists so that sometimes we do not have to
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
well dam why didn't i think of that
thanx for the tip
why does it seem the more expensive the car the more less helpful the owners?
my other car is a lowly suaru turbo wagon
but the people on my subaru board will bend over backwards to help with even the smallest questions


and thanks john yeah time is kinda my enemy my mother in law whom i rent from has decided the saab "looks tacky" and needs to be gotten rid of
but the 20' trailer frame and 25' motor home thats hardly used that she owns and is parked next to it are just fine
so go figure ....

i would ask what bolt sizes the motor mount bolts are since they seem to be diffrent than what has been suggested in some of the motor mount repair articles i have read

but given the tone of the first reply i received it appears to be a pointless question

and again thanks john
 

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oddcomp - I am sure that jp11's post was not meant to be interpreted as dismissive - it's not in keeping with his other posts.

Let's keep personalities out of this and concentrate on the question and answer, please.

SSc is a helpful place. Personally I do not have the answer, but hopefully someone here knowledgable about 9000s can help you
 

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It really depends on how brutal you want to be about getting the engine out, how much of the other bits do you need to keep.

I can't go into full detail through lack of memory!
But, the basics:
If your taking engine out the top,
remove the bonnet
get the car jacked up, remove the bottom ball joints on the wishbones and pull the driveshafts
Remove exhaust front pipe
take of anything connected to gearbox, selector rods, hydralic hose for clutch or auto trans, speedo drive
Now from the top, not sure if 9k have single plug harness for engine loom, otherwise you'll need to methodically work your way round the engine disconnecting anything that looks like it's connected to body and engine.
Remove water pipes, battery, etc..
Now you'lll need to support the engine with a hoist, and remove engine mounts, I think theres the top dogbone at the back, a front and rear lower mount and another on the gearbox...

Now you should be able to start lifting, taking care not to snag and watching for something you will have forgotten to disconnect, engine will need to come out at an angle with gearbox end down, to clear.

alternatively, you could drop the whole assembly down on the subframe!

Now you can see why I asked how much you want to keep!
 

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As Leon says, The engine gearbox combo basically sits on a tripod, 2 engine mounts with somwthing like 17mm ish bolts and the gearbox loop mount.

Other that that, the drive shafts are the other biggie but will just pull out of the drivers if the engine is lifted or dropped enough.

Top dog bone need removing (easy)

Then just the odds and ends, clutch pipe, fuel pipes, water, oil, aircon(careful!!) lines, and any wiring + gear linkage.

have fun and an engine hoist.

Andrew
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks i am as far as being held up by only the motor mount bolts the front engine mount bolt is suppsoed to be 16 ish mm from some of the stuff i read on line
but a 21 mm is what seems to fit <strange>
the back motor mount bolt either has no nut or is.. well i dunno it may get a sawzall surgery treatment
not too concerned about the harness some of its disintegrated as i have found out so that was easy with a few snips i am trying to save as much of the parts that are salvagable<sp> as possible
but thanx for the tips they have helped

i will say that after just taking this one apart i am soooo glad i won't have to do any kind of maintenance on these things looks like you almost have to be made of rubber to work on them <correctly>
i sorta cheated and removed the injection system so i could get to the back side of the engine
well off to take out my frustration on a nice game of postal 2
 

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Just to reiterate, rude and unhelpful comments are not welcome here.

I know you've now got the job pretty much done, but for other folk's info, I would recommend that you do purchase a manual. The Haynes admittedly isn't the best, but it has enough of the right sort of info to help you along your way, and it's a lot easier and quicker to have the manual next to you whilst doing the job than a PC and a line!
 

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Spot on MarkE.. I dont know how many times Ive found myself looking at the haynes manual... and wondering why is the part in my hand different from the one in the picture... its always great to get chatting to someone who knows how to do things from expierence...

Thats the beauty of saabscene... If its been done on a Saab, then its probably been done by someone who participates on this board .

Have a Happy New Year All Saabsceners
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
ok i win
its out
contrary to what some of the repair procedures for replacing motor mounts say that i have read online
my front and rear motor mount nuts turned out to be 19 mm not the 16 mm that the writeups specified either that or my dyslexia has really gotten bad

thanx for all the help and words of wisdom
just gotta pull off whatever else i think is worth a few and send the rest off to the scrap yard
thanx again
 

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Congratulations Oddcomp. Hey, I didn't mean to be unhelpful. And thanks /john for the soothing comments. It's just that I personally wouldn't contemplate the exercise you just carried without a book of some kind! Mind you, this board offers truly wonderful help and assistance for incapables like myself. Good luck with your part-out.
 

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I've deleted a post from here that was asking for prices for parts from the car.

Can I remind folk that the main boards should not be used as wanted/for sale exhanges. We have the Classifieds section for that.

This way we can keep the technical discussion areas free from non-relevant items.

Thanks

Mark
 
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