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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
About once in every five times I try to engage reverse I find that it won't go in. It feels as if the cogs haven't lined up.

If I try to put it in another gear first and then engage reverse it sometimes helps. Alternatively, if I engage another gear and then drive forward a bit then it nearly always goes into reverse. Finally, if I let out the clutch as I engage reverse it always works but casuses a nasty crunch!

Any suggestions about the possible cause?
Cheers,

Alanb (with massive leak in downpipe which gives a jet-fighter sound effect)
 

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There is a rubber block in the gearchange linkeage between the bulkhead and the gearbox,this splits and gives the symtoms you describe,easily changed just two bolts I think and about £30.00 to purchase.
Mike
 

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Sounds about right Mike, I have a similar prime suspect, (very "notchy" gear change), but where do you get the rubber coupling from, £30, humm, at that price it must be a genuine Saab part?
 

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i have the haynes manual and looked at the gear linkage adjustment part,shows an alignment hole pre 94 cars in front of gear lever,not there on my 91 carlsson,so looked at the post 94 bit,shows an adjustment hole on gearbox near part no plate, no hole there either,what do i do now.

stuart
91 black carlsson
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Cheers. I will check the coupling but could it really be the culprit? It goes into other gears perfectly and I have no problem finding the 'gate' for reverse I just have problems pushing it all the way in so that the gear engages.

As I said, it feels very much like the cogs won't mesh. If anyone owns a motorbike and has had the familiar problem of not being able to engage first from a standstill unless the bike is moved forward they will know what I mean.

Alanb
 

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Hi all
Got a similar problem to this. On hard acceleration my gear lever "buzzes". Is this common? I'm sure I've seen a mod on site somewhere which involves filing a bit off someting but cannot remember where it is.
Any help appreciated

Ant
 

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By the way, my diagnosis of this fault would be that the clutch is not clearing properly. This tends to be a problem on reverse as that has no synchromesh and baulks if there is any spped differential. Had this on numerous cable operated clutches and it was the adjustment that wanted sorting out. With the clutch being hydraulic, not too sure what it could be. Any idea how long on this clutch?? It tends to be better if not rushed. Letting out the clutch and forcing it in will make it crunch but screw up your gearbox. Hate to be pessimistic and I may be wrong but I think it's the clutch if the other gears and the gate are ok. If you decide to do it, make sure they/you do the slave cylinder as well..money well spent.PS are there any leaks in the clutch hydraulic circuit and is the fluid level correct?

Ant
 

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By the way, my diagnosis of this fault would be that the clutch is not clearing properly. This tends to be a problem on reverse as that has no synchromesh and baulks if there is any spped differential. Had this on numerous cable operated clutches and it was the adjustment that wanted sorting out. With the clutch being hydraulic, not too sure what it could be. Any idea how long on this clutch?? It tends to be better if not rushed. Letting out the clutch and forcing it in will make it crunch but screw up your gearbox. Hate to be pessimistic and I may be wrong but I think it's the clutch if the other gears and the gate are ok. If you decide to do it, make sure they/you do the slave cylinder as well..money well spent.PS are there any leaks in the clutch hydraulic circuit and is the fluid level correct?

Ant
 

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Hi Alan, I've always had a little difficulty engaging reverse on my CSE (and just assumed this was normal!). A few weeks ago I couldn't change gear properly, so replaced the rubber block refered to above, all okay. 2 weeks later my clutch master cylinder goes,( ) have now had this replaced but from what I hear the slave can then blow (which, BTW, means gearbox out!). None of the above repairs have had any effect the ease of engaging reverse, its still a pain in the a**

Pete
 

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I had this on my '90 CD, getting progressively worse. While looking for the Aero, a salesman test-drove it and declared that it needed a new clutch. He wanted to knock loads off the trade-in price, and his Aero was too expensive anyway and an auto to boot. I ended up trading it in with a dealer who didn't even bother driving it.

I'm told that the "fingers" on the diaphragm start to bend, reducing the clutch clearance when it is disengaged. The fix is, as the dealer mentioned, a new clutch. This may not necessarily be the cause, but it certainly sounds like clutch drag.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Bill,

That would figure. It is on its original clutch at 134k and on occasions at 1/2 red I think I have detected some slippage.

Is there any easy wat to check for wear?

Cheers,

Alanb
 

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1991 Saab 9000 L4-2290cc 2.3L DOHC Turbo EFI

Top - Vehicle
Transmission and Drivetrain
. Clutch
. . Testing and Inspection

.



Testing and Inspection

An inspection opening has been included in the clutch housing to check clutch wear.

The following is how to check for wear:
Remove plug from inspection opening in clutch cover (engine end of gearbox, black plastic cover).
Depress and release clutch pedal and ensure that release bearing is in contact with pressure plate fingers.
Measure clearance between front edge of plastic sleeve and edge of release bearing.
Clearance should be .08 - .35 inch (Use feeler gauges to measure). If clearance is less than .08 inch, clutch should be replaced.
Pete.
 

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Had similar problem with my Aero. Just wouldn't go into reverse, but if I released clutch and tried again it usually went in OK. Started doing it with first eventually. A new clutch/pressure plate/release bearing solved the problem. Old clutch plate had stuck to the splines on the gearbox shaft, limiting its movement. Like a knife thro butter now though (almost)!
 
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