[sevenman]

A couple of times after I have locked my 97 9000 using the remote the rear passenger door hasn't locked.

The alarm still operates if the door is opened.

An unlock and re-lock usually sorts it, but this isn't ideal.

I am guessing that some components just need greasing/oiling.

Does anybody have experience on how tricky this is? Removing interior trim always worries me :|

thanks

 

[Derek]

The central locking servo is sticking. Once the servoes start sticking the problem usually gets worse until the central locking fuse blows.A good squirt of WD40 followed by some light oil should sort it but it will require removing the door trim to get at it This not too bad a job just be careful with the steel clips at the top when re-fitting it.

 

[emmaizzy]

Hello
I changed the servo on the rear door of my previous 9000. I think it would be cheaper (time & money) in the long run, rather than trying to extend the life of an iffy servo.Taking off and refitting the door trim is fiddly, took me about 40 minutes. You'll need a spline key set, which if you don't have are worth buying, as they undo most of the bits screwed on to your Saab. Some patience and something to put all the little screws in. Good luck.

 

[sevenman]

What exactly are spline keys?

They are different to torx?

thanks

 

[mark e]

Spline keys are different to Torx- they look more like a cog when viewed end on.

Torx however is what you need for Saabs. There should be one in the toolkit in the boot...

 

[sevenman]

I will try and take a look this weekend if the snow dissapears.

I have torx keys in my socket set so that should be fine

 

[sevenman]

Door trim removal went ok.

3 different sizes of Torx keys were needed, which my socket set contained.

The Haynes manual lacked clarity in a couple of places.

There was only one press stud in the rear bottom corner of the rear doors. Once that is released and all screws undone the trim lifts off. I thought there were more, so was pulling hard in places where I shouldn't have been. Thankfully it is all fairly sturdy.

Getting the trim back on and the lock button poking through the hole is extremely fiddly and frustrating.

Anyway, I oiled everything that moved and was related to the locking mechanism, and it now seems to be ok.

 

[saabeltann]

Speaking of central locking, I saw on an old post that it was possible to get a cheap replacement servo from Maplin - would that be part number YD79L?

Both passenger side door locks on my 9000 have failed so I'm in need of a low cost fix

 

[billj]

I did this on a C900 and documented it here.

The same units should work on a 9000 and I bought an extra 5-wire one to do my dad's CSE. You'll need the 5-wire unit (YD78K) for the front door and the 2-wire unit (YD79L) for the rear.

I haven't got the wiring information for the 9000, but the same method I used to figure it out on teh C900 should also work for the 9000. There was a post that mentioned the wiring for the pre-facelift 9000 and I don't know whether the same wiring colours were used on the later cars.

 

[Zaphod Beeblebrox]

We have a similar problem on our 9000, except the door is permanently locked, the knob cannot be moved up, and the door cannot be opened from inside or out, and hence you cannot remove the door trim to get at the gubbins. The doors also have the optional wood trim to the top. Any recent ideas on fixing this?

 

[SV]

I have just spent half an hour trying to remove the door trim to change a lock unit.
I removed all screws, handle, etc according to the Haynes manual.

I removed the fixing stud at the bottom rear, and then the trim is supposed to simply lift off.
Problem is, it is still fixed at the top, across the whole length. I can't figure out what I forgot to do. Basically the strip of black plastic which is at the top of the trim seems to be blocking anything, and does not want to bulge.

Is this strip supposed to come off, or stay attached to the trim, or to the door itself?

Any tips on this? Thanks in advance.

 

[billj]

The strip is part of the trim and clips over the top edge of the door. It should be possible to lift the trim upwards, perhaps with a bit of persuasion.

When refitting it, a tip is to wind the window down first to make it easier to get the trim clipped properly on top of the door. Otherwise, it's possible to think you have it clipped on but when the job's done the top of the trim will move about. Quite common to find the trim loose at the top on 9000s that have had the door trim removed.

 

[cbarrow]

SV,

I had the same problem with the back door trim just last week when changing a central locking motor. The front door trims were easy to lift off but the backs were really stubborn - in the end I gave up trying to lift for fear of breaking something. The door trim has enough give to allow it to be pulled away from the bottom (hinged around the strip you can't get out) to allow enough access to change to motor. I opened the door, lifted trim up, then closed the door enough to allow the bottom of the trim to rest on the edge of the rear seat. Worked fine for me on both back doors - although I wouldn't risk bending the trims any further.

 

[SV]

Bill, Chris, thanks for the feedback.

Chris, I have exactly your problem. I can lift the trim away from the door to some extent, but I gave up trying to remove it completely, as I was afraid of breaking something.

I'll try again to remove it completely, as it would make things much easier, otherwise I will have to use Chris's technique. Not great when working in the street...

Cheers,
Stephane

 

[cbarrow]

Good luck! I don't appear to have caused any damage by lifting the panels up rather than removing - but I agree that getting them off all together would make it much easier. While you've got the panel off, I'd recommend spraying some waxoyl / white grease or similar in the bottom of the doors; they are a bit of a favourite place for rust in 9000s.

Chris