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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been agonising over this for such a long time... Do I buy my first SAAB and have my cherry well and truly popped?? I've always gone the normal BMW/Audi/VW route, but 9000's seem to offer so much space and equipment for the money I would be a certifiable buffoon not to. However, one site I recently went to put SAAB in the bottom 10 for reliability, stories on various forums of owners having to sell their kidneys to finance repairs etc. Then to top it all, I read in "SAAB vs SAAB" posting that they are really safe to be in during an accident, something not lost on me, having wiped out my BMW 1 year ago and having 'er indoors and two young lads to worry about...There is a very good chance I will be chucking it all up in the air next year and going to UNI (at 40!!), so the car would be used for motorway travel, but has to be reliable.

I would love an aero, but the uni bit worries me so I am looking more toward the CSE LPT route, 2.0 or 2.3. Any suggestions??
 

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I traded my 9-3 2.0 HPT in for a 9000 2.0 LPTMY97, this summer and havent had any regrets!

As you say its offers a lot of space, comfort and safety. Actually its was nominated the overall safest car from 1992-1997 by the Sweedish traffic commission, and a few months ago one of the main newspapers in Denmark was still rating the 9000 as on of the top 3 safest cars in its class, keeping in mind that it has been out of production for 5 year now!!!

I guess its also a "neutral" SAAB for beginners as its not really traditional 900/9-3 style compicupé style of car, with the key behind the gearlever, reverselock to pull key out etc..

Like other sweedish cars its a perfect winter car with lots of heating and good winterhandling. Its got very fine ergonamics, nice seats, its pretty economical on fuel, I do avarage 10 ltr. on 100 kmh. If you fell like more then 150HP just spend 500£ and you will have a BMW killer!

Go for a MY95 and up to avoid bad gearboxes and timing chains unless you have a good friend who is also a SAAB nut.

Go for it!
 

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Bought a MY'92 in 94 @ 108k have had some prob's but all cars suffer this. On holliday to France with 3 adults, 2 17yr olds and a hatch full of kitchen sinks ( yes I got all the luggage in ) at speeds up to 90mph doing about 1200mls on the road it returned 37mpg. Fantastic . Don't know what you want to spend but on your search you could give Bill Dean @ Allsarb a call. Bought my Carly from him and can say he's fair. I have no connection with him as I have £120 bill to pay next week as my '92 CS failed its MOT.
Also have a look in classifieds, one of his mechanics is selling a very nice CD Carlsson H reg.
Oh! and read these and some old posts, if you need any convincing that
's the way to go.
Cheers Keith.
 

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There's certainly do doubting the all round versatility of the 9000, but I think it's fair to raise the reliability/repairs question.

9000s were built to a very high spec, which is why, when looked after properly, they are quite capable of galactic mileages. However because the parts are high spec, replacements do tend to be expensive. However compared to BMW, Merc and Audi, the parts are reasonable.

Sadly not all have been looked after well and properly serviced and this can lead to large repair bills, but I don't think this is any different form any of the other "Premium" marques.

So, find yourself one that's been properly serviced with full history and you won't go far wrong. Now is also quite a good time to buy from a main dealer (if you can find one) as they are a little outside the "approved used car" age, so there may still be some left that dealers wnat to shift.

Happy hunting, let us know how you get on, and feel free to come back with any more Q's.
 

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I to was a VW/Audi man till a few months ago, got a 9000 CSE and it is a much better car with all the toys. 2 problems so far have been a DI cart at £150 plus 5mins and a worn clutch at £350 all in inc labour & new slave cylinder (read the posts advising same) for peace of mind, none of this could have been caused by lack of maint so even if it has full service history the consumable parts have to be replaced sometime.
 

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i bought my first saab in 1979 a 99ems. this car was so far in front of any brit euro car/injection,style safety quality,etc.i have since had bmw,rs turbo,metro turbo etc. i will never drive anything but saab............ but pre gm. that is when saab ended/ and before we get the outcry from the vectra lads,this is only my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for all the replies, I am going to bite the bullet and look at a 96 "N" aero today weather permitting. Its in scarabe (? - very dark) green, 125K on the clock with full saab history, I can't wait to be honest, I will report back with the outcome...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Bought it, oh my god, where does all that mid range urge come from? I drove it home (68 miles) last night and boy did I have some fun. Fella in a Calibra on the outskirts of Preston not amused I can say. I do not condone the use of excessive speed, but, boy racers just have to be learned...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Oh ****** , had the car into APL SAAB in Kirkham (NW, nr Blackpool) and they managed to pick up about a grands worth of work that needed doing!! In the main:

Low on boost, about 40% down
Suspect leaking heater matrix
RH Driveshaft tube that covers bearing missing
Exhaust back box needs replacing
Numerous small but cheap time consuming jobs

Not too bad in isolation, but, they reckon removal of the whole A/C system is required to get to the matrix. The gearbox needs to come out to get to fit this shroud over the driveshaft. The low boost needs looking at, could be the APC playing up, the turbo may need setting up or replacing
or even the ECU may need replacing
The backbox, ho hum, they go so thats fair enough

I'm amazed that the main dealers who serviced it 2 months ago didn't notice these things, or maybe they did and thats why it was sold...I feel a phonecall coming on.
 

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Mowgli, that's not a list that needs to cost over a grand at all IMO.

A leaky heater matrix is not uncommon, and is fixable yourself. It's a bit of a fiddly hob, but quite acheivable. It doesn't require the removal of the entire a/c system and re gassing.

Low boost- the least likely thing is a faulty ECU. Probable causes are a faulty APC solenoid or actuator, not the turbo itself.

I don't believe that the driveshaft cover tube has to be there- certainly mine hasn't had one since I've owned it and I've never had any problems. Nobody has tod me it needs replacing either- including Abbott Racing.

Perhaps APL have been a little over-zealous. Why don't you post the full list of niggles up here, or have a search through old posts to find some reassurig answers.

Meanwhile, it's certainly worth going back to the dealers and presenting them with the list "for comment"
 

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40% low on boost??? Where does the gauge reach, and what sort of petrol are you using? Try 98 octane petrol and an adaption run before spending money. As for the heater matrix leak, you could try a leak sealer. I'm not a fan of things that are full of particulate matter, such as Bars Leaks, but there are products around which are entirely liquid, but will bung up leaks nicely due to some form of magic chemistry. Wurth make one call Radiator Seal HP (which I have used successfully) if you can find a local supplier. Probably worth (wurth?) trying before any greater expense. See Wurth Additives .
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hiya,

I am using 98 Ron at the minute, only bought it monday evening so cannot say what the other fella used.

Adaptation run, I'll give it a go, as you say better than spending the money, I'll look through other posts to find out how, this is my first so its a learning curve

After that, APC valve?? Where is it?, how easy to change?, cheapest place to get one?

Heater matrix - Its only going to be a few quid for the leak stopper so thats a good place to start.

Driveshaft shroud, thinking about it, its probably a must for those scandanavian weather conditions, but down here in the balmy UK (blackpool? ) it may be a "nice to have" I would rather spend a few minutes every now and again under there re-greasing than blow loads of money having the gearbox removed - over zealous garage?, quite possibly, it is coming up to xmas for them too you know...

Back box, I read in an earlier post that Bosal exhausts are pretty good and a decent price also, I will go that route I think, a shiny stainless jobber would be lovely, but money is tight.

All help appreciated as always
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Heres an update...

I took it out onto the local motorway and nailed it, car revved to 5K and no more. If you consider that the boost guage reads from 10 till 2 O'clock then the boost goes to just past 12 and no more. Ringing any bells with anyone?

Heater matrix - not leaking, no damp patches anywhere, nothing.

Driveshaft shroud - Genereal consensus is that its not really needed in this country.

Back box - It does need one of these for definate, and will get one this week.

I'm selling my Mk3 Golf GTi to finance the change to SAAB ownership, however, if the Golf doesn't go then a sorted Aero will be...Those heated seats were lovely this morning.
 
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