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Hi All,

Well, as per my other 2 threads, the water feed to the turbo had corroded badly at the banjo connection which caused a water leak. The real issue was the pipe itself and how we were going to fix it.

Initially bought a hose fit banjo end off eBay with the hope of cutting the pipe down and doing a 'repair' with rubber hose. This wasn't going to work as the diameter inside the banjo was too small for my liking and the heat around that area would probably have caused the rubber to melt.

2nd thought was to get a braided hose, with banjo end and a compression joint on the end to make a more secure, more reliable and better repair to the pipe.

These above methods weren't really going to cut it and I didn't want to run the risk of under cooling the turbo.

I looked at the above options as I was told a new pipe would be a 4 week wait from Sweden.

For Reference:

Saab Part No: 12635835
GM Part No: 860253

I'd trawled eBay for days and didn't find anything, Saab 2.8, Vectra VXR...nothing. On Thursday night, a thought came over my head to search for Insignia VXR and Bingo! One available for £15. It is a used part but being off an insignia, it's not old and looks like new. After buying it immediately, calling the seller and paying for Saturday delivery.

I set out to fit it.

So 2 things. It's a time consuming job and a bit fiddly...however it is doable in 1 day or less if you don't flaff around like I did and possibly even quicker with my guide below.

Enough of my is the DIY (I will add 'Some' pictures later as most is quite self explanatory).

Remove Battery (undo the fastner in the battery box to the front of the car)

Remove Battery Box, this is fiddly but it will come out.
- Remove 3 Torx machine screws in the bottom of the box (one is sunken down and gets all the crap so may need a clean out).
- Slide up the plastic channel that the cables run through to separate it from the box (the one next to the turbo)
- There is a relay box to the front, this slides out by pushing the clip inside the battery box.
- There is a rubber covered electrical 'thing' there also, to remove this, there is triangle shaped diamond bit of plastic that you pull up on and it unlocks this from the battery box so you can pull it out.
- Then it's a case of grabbing the battery box and with some wizardry and at the right angle, will come out.
(Be careful, as you will see the side closest to the engine/turbo has an additional layer of plastic, this is fibreglass reinforced and the top edge may begin to break up on you, just take it easy and wear gloves).

You need to make room to get access.

Remove Front Bumper
- This is very easy. Remove the three lowest fixings from the arch liner on the edge. On mine the lowest fixing was a screw, then the one above was a bolt, needing an 8mm socket (these disconnect the bumper from the arch) and then the one further into the arch at the bottom was also a bolt. (this disconnects the splash tray.
- The splash tray needs to come off too as you'll see why later on.
- Remove the trim panel fixings from the top edge at the front of the car. Just push the middle dot in and pull out the plastic fixings.
- Then you need to get quite heavy handed, at the top edge of the side of the bumper pull it out towards yourself, and simultaneously pull towards the front of the car. It will pop and then snap out.
- On the passenger side of the vehicle (UK) on the splash tray there is a big connector that is secured in that needs to be disconnected (if very strong you can use your fingers, if your a weed like me, use a thin flat blade screwdriver, there is a tiny groove for this purpose) and then also the bottom feed off the washer jet reservoir which is for the headlight wash. (All the water mix will come out so have something ready to catch it all)
- You can then place the bumper assembly to one side.

Remove headlights

- Just 3 bolts. 2 at the top which are very easy to see, then 1 underneath. Simply pull the light unit forward and disconnect the single connection on the back. Is another one of those hard slide connectors.

Remove Radiator Cross Member/Slam Panel

- The panel which has the bonnet catch in it. This has to come off to give you more room.
- Undo all of the bolts you can see at the top. I think it was a 10mm Socket
- Remove the 2 torx bolts which are just underneath the very middle, next to the horn.
- Remove the fastener that holds the bonnet release cable tight.
- Flip the crossmember over and you can remove the cable.
- Unplug the horn.
- Place this to one side.

Remove the air intake pipes

- This is much easier now that the slam panel has been removed.
- It's pretty self explanatory but remove the airbox (just pulls out, is on rubber grommets)
- remove the entire section that runs along the front.
- just pull off the vacuum hoses (2 of them)
- Also a large hard plastic vaccum hose that needs disconnecting.
- Unplug MAF and that section comes out.
- Then remove the large pipe that connects the top intake to a rubber joint for the intercooler.
- Place them all to one side

(The mid sections of some of the pipes that go down further, will come off after the next step)

Remove Radiator fans
- Without removing these you just can't get access.
- There are 2 metal supports either side that sit over a rubber support, take both sides off, 2 bolts each side
- Unplug the top connector, a bigger version of the slide thingy.
- remove the 2 screws at the top each side.
- Go to the front passenger side near the washer bottle, there is a piece of plastic trim held on by a single nut, undo the nut and it'll slide forward.
- Look in there and there is a single bolt which has a funny torx head on it, remove that.
- Push the top end of the assembly forward and using some pliers squeeze the back of the cable clips to push them out to release the cables from the assembly.
- Again using some wizardy, just pull it all out upwards.
- There is a push on plastic cover that goes over the rad, intercooler and A/C Condenser.. just pull it off upwards and place away with your fans.

Remove lower pipes

- Basically remove any vertical pipes you now have in front of you.
- There are 2 that go to a vacuum pump, these just clip off, squeeze the ring on the outside and pull off.
- There is a bracket that the right hand plastic tube is bolted to, you'll need to unbolt that.
- Then to the left, the remainder of a large pipe that goes to a rubber joint at the bottom that goes to the intercooler. That one is secured by 2 torx bolts and the usual jubilee clips.

Remove Heat Shield
You need to take this off as you won't be able to manoeuvre the metal pipe out or new one back in with it on.
- is as simple as removing all the bolts from it. There are a couple underneath but one is quite hidden and is a bit tight to get to.
- You will have to unbolt the dipstick tube and twist it to the left in order to jiggle out the heatshield.

Unbolt Vacuum Pump
- At the bottom where you pulled out the 2 smaller plastic pipes, this little unit needs unbolting. Only 2 Torx Screws, one that you can access where your kneeling now on the black bracket. The other is underneath the vehicle, again easy to spot as it's on a shiny black bracket. (This is why the splash guard had to come off.
- You can leave this resting down there or unplug it via another of those horrid slidy connectors and place it to one side.

Unbolt Starter Motor
- I was initially horrified when I found out the bolt for the end of the water feed was behind the starter motor, you just cannot get at the bolt with a socket with it in the way.
- 2 Torque bolts hold it in place, both visible, one behind a material covered bracket. The other at the bottom, you need to look for this one.
- Unbolt it but then just slide it out a little so that the rear end slopes down, this then gives you enough access.

Woohoo! Time to unbolt the water feed!
- Celebrations a bit premature here.
- In the middle of the pipe there is a bracket, this is located sort of to the right of the join of the manifold, behind it, at an angle, a 10mm socket gets this off, it's just awkward.
- Undo the M14 bolt out the end of the water feed. I i had to use a mirror to see where it was to get the socket on.
- I hadn't drained any water as a lot was already out due to the leaking pipe. So quite a bit of water will come out when you undo this end.
- You will need to also undo the oil feed pipe, you just cannot get the water pipe out otherwise.
- Both ends are now easily accessible. One you'll see to the left of you near where you just undid the water pipe and then on the turbo itself, this is the very top bolt. (No oil will come out, only a tiny tiny tiny tiny bit that's left sitting in the bolt. So don't worry, you're not going to drop all the oil.

Time to get jiggy
- In terms of frustration and time spent, this part is just plain awful. Due to it being a metal pipe, you can't just bend it and manipulate it like a rubber hose. What a nightmare.
- I found that by twisting and pulling from the bottom end I got it out, you will need to put pressure on the oil feed pipe to squeeze it past and the dipstick tube. I promise it does come out though.

- Once the pipe is out time to put the new one in, again probably a good 20 minutes of manoeuvring, swearing, crying, jiggling, swearing then crying again and got it into place.

To Refit..
- Just do everything in reverse :) I found putting it all back together was much faster than taking it apart as it's just a reversal.

Water Feed bolts: 30NM
Oil Feed Bolts: 30NM
Starter Motor Bolts: 50NM
Heat Shield Bolts: 10NM

I will add pictures later as I don't have them with me at the moment.

I hope this helps someone, as I could have sure done with it before I started :)
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