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After having my Aero stolen in spite of the standard alarm & immobiliser (car horn was sounding during break-in, but they still managed to drive off!?)I thought that I should get a better immobiliser.

I am now using a decent steering wheel lock & don't wan't to fork out for a 'bells & whistles' commercial alarm, so does anyone know of any useful mods i.e. switch in the fuel pump wiring? How about some sort of timer which could be activated in a 'car-jacking' to time the immobiliser for 30 secs or so?

Still intrigued about that jump-starting though.
 

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Very subtle this one but hard to spot unless you really know 9000's. Loosen the connector to the DI rail without actually removing it... any opportuntist thief will normally give up after a while of fruitless attempts at starting.

Or, as you suggest, put a switch in the fuel pump circuit, or the starter solenoid etc. etc...

<edited for rotten speling. Sum thinks never change, even with anoo year>
 

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The fact that your alarm was going off while they drove away would suggest that the immobilser wasn't working!

You can by approved units that just immobilise for just over £100, my last car had a unit which has a small 'key' on the chain with the rest of the keys, there is a loop around the ignition barrel that detects when the 'key' is near which deactivates the alarm.

I understand your concerns over security, i had mine stolen from my driveway, but that was after they got my spare keys during the burglary.

How old is your Aero?

Skiddins
 

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Thought I'd post this advert here as it's directly relevant.

I have a brand new Thatcham Cat 1 imobiliser, if anyone would like it for £20 + couple of quid for postage. In order to benefit from cheaper insurance it must be fitted by a registered/certified fitter. Not sure of cost for this, (as my car has Saab imoiliser fitted)

The unit is approx 4" x 3" x 2", and presumably installs under the bonnet. It is designed for installation with any car, and was originally provided by an insurance company as an unwanted incentive.

Drop me an e-mail by clicking on e-mail prompt above, if interested.
 

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Like most modern cars, the fuel pump relay takes a signal from the ignition which tells it that the engine is running. This is so that the fuel pump stops when you crash (and the engine stops) so that fuel is not pumped out of ruptured fuel lines.

The wire should be easy to identify from the diagram in the Haynes manual. Putting a switch in the line stops the relay turning the pump on, and as it is a very low current signal, any switch will do. All you need to decide is where to put the switch.

I'm not an expert on Trionic, but if it is like most Bosch systems it will rely on various signals from engine sensors such as a TDC sensor. No signal = no spark. A friend of mine put a switch in the TDC sensor lead on his car to great effect. He hid the switch so cleverly that even I didn't spot him using it (to my great embarrassment).
 
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