I saw this as a suggested method of removing the crank pulley bolt. Just wedge a breaker bar to the ground and the bolt and then try to start the motor (With the DI unplugged, I'm guessing)?
Anyone ever tried this, and is it a good idea?
Never felt comfortable with this method and have therefore never tried it. On my last 9000, I got the crank pulley bolt off with a standard socket and 14" breaker bar. I put the car in gear and got the missus to stomp on the brake pedal. A short, sharp pull on the bar soon freed the bolt.
I've done a similar thing but in "slow motion". Instead of using the starter motor, I've jacked the car up on a trolley jack, wedged the socket bar on the ground and lowered the car slowly with the jack. I have done this more than once but I can't remember how I stopped the engine rotating in every case. I know that once I wedged something in the teeth of the flywheel when the starter motor was removed.
Whether it was the right thing to do, I don't know, but when you're stuck at home with inadequate tools you have to improvise.
Thanks for the suggestions! I think I'll just try getting a breaker bar after it and if that doesn't work, I like the idea of using the car's weight to break it instead of the starter motor. Was a little worried about the car getting shoved off it's jack stands or something, so I'll just use that as a last resort. Thanks again, and happy thanksgiving to everyone in the states!
Have used this method a number of times on various cars including 2 9000's, works really well. Have always used with the car on the ground with the wheels on. If planned should do at the start of the job before jacking up. I always use a long ratchet torque wrench set for undoing bolts so that the crank bolt is not tightened by mistake. Set the torque well above the tightening torque. Can then position the wrench in a suitable position against the floor - do not try and hold. Use a six point socket to avoid damaging the bolt head - impact type probably best. Go into the car and then flick the ignition key on and immediately off so engine barely turns over. Bolt is then slackened.
Trying other methods is always diffult unless a means of locking the flywheel is available which usually requires a second person, since the engine will turn, even when in gear and a foot on the brakes, and move the car slightly. Another possiblity which I have not used is an air ratchet.
There is always then the problem of doing the crank bolt back up to the required torque which is quite high on the 9000 since the same problems occur. If you can make up a tool to position in the pulley this can be levered against the torque wrench. Maybe other people have an easier way.
I also had problems with this bolt, but now have a sure fire way of releasing it every time.
I remove the wheel arch liner, put the wheel back on and drive to my nearest Agriculture/Lorry (Waggon/Truck) tyre dealer. With the wheel on full lock they can get their air gun (looks more like the size of a jack hammer!) onto the bolt and release it using the impact drive.
Then gently do the bolt back up and drive home to continue the work.
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