Saabscene Saab Forum - Saab Technical Information Resource banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My '93 2.0 LPT has just developed a problem with the clutch. In the morning the bite point is right on the floor, so that it crunches in and out of gear. It seems to get better with use and is ok for the rest of the day. I spoke to my garage on the phone and they thought perhaps it's a leaking slave or master cylinder, but the levels are on the max and haven't needed topping up in the 12 months I've had the car. No obvious under car leaks either. Any ideas??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
Hi Ian & welcome.
I've a couple or manual 9000's. Both boxes are notchy from cold, improving as the box oil warms up. You have to press clutch pedal to carpet, wait half a sec, then change, or you can end up snatching the lever out of gear and into the next. Its a characteristic on later models (cos it's a sh*te box IMHO) . A change to synthetic box oil improved things slightly .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,305 Posts
Hi Ian and welcome to Saabscene .

The 9000 box can certainly be notchy when cold as WindyH describes but that doesn't sound like your problem here.

As you're not losing fluid, I would suspect not a leaky but a sticky cylinder, most probably the master. Unfortunately I don't know the diagnosis procedure for this- others might.

When it does happen, you might find that pumping the pedal helps to get things moving.

If it turns out to be the slave, that's rather worse news I'm afraid as the 'box will have to come out to replace it. At that point I would consider replacing the clutch as well.

HTH
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
258 Posts
Originally posted by Mark E:
[qb]If it turns out to be the slave, that's rather worse news I'm afraid as the 'box will have to come out to replace it. At that point I would consider replacing the clutch as well.

HTH [/qb][/b]
Having eaten my clutch I bit the bullet and changed the slave cylinder at the same time. I can't remember the price of the slave - £80 ? certainly no more - but it's a three hour or more labour charge to change it over, so it makes sense to do clutch and slave together whether the slave needs doing (it did on mine - discovered it was leaking everywhere) or not.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the help and advice, and the warm welcome!

It was worse this morning. I tried pumping the pedal with and without the engine running, but it didn't seem to help. So, I gritted my teeth and crammed it into gear and after a couple of changes down the road it was OK again. I really hope it is the master cylinder sticking and nothing inside the bell housing. If anyone knows of any further checks I can perform, please let me know.

Ian
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
545 Posts
Before spending alot of money I would have a go at bleeding the clutch. You need to use a pressure bleeder though, I use a Gunsens eezibleed which takes pressure from a tyre, not expensive to buy but without it just pumping the pedal will not work. Suggest this since when I got my car nearly 2 years ago the pedal bite varied from near the floor to higher up and tended to improve with the day and sometimes whether the car was parked pointing up or down a hill. Once bled the pedal then bit consistently quite high up and was quite hard compared to cable clutches. There was a lot of black fluid so it had not been bled for many years (few months previously the brakes had supposedly been bled by a Saab dealer). After half a year I replaced the slave when working on the gearbox but am still on the same master cylinder although there is a trace of fluid where the push rod enters from the pedal. The master cylinder internal seal will wear in time but this does not mean it will leak fluid out past the end seal - however, if the internal seal (or the cylinder bore) has worn chances are it will give a problem all the time. If the slave cylinder is leaking you can see this with a torch if you remove the black plastic cover on the bell housing, may also be fluid leaking out of the rubber plugs in the bottom of the bellhousing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,219 Posts
I had a problem similar to this on my '87 9000 T
it needed a new seal kit in the master cylinder.. the fluid was leaking past the seals and i wasnt getting pressure sometimes, and otehr times it would just lose pressure while holding the clutch down, causing the car to creep if it was in gear.. and eventually take off..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
Would go along with what Paul Harrison mentions. recently had my clutch hose burst so had to bleed the clutch through - not a pleasant job without proper tools.

Rather than buying an eezee bleed, use of the device explained to me by Scaero (top advice - thanks). This consists of a rad cap (same thread size as clutch/brake reservoir cap) with a schraeder valve fitted through it and 2 rad cap rubber washers.

Fill the reservoir up to top and screw the rad cap device on. Apply a small amount of pressure with a bike pump and watch the reservoir level whilst pumping the clutch through. Possibly continue topping up (but lock bleed screw before removing pressure) and ensuring new fluid throughout the clutch system.

Good luck,

Pete
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
243 Posts
totally understand what pete is saying but to be honest the bleeding would be a lot easies with the gunson bleed kit, am going through the same problem at the moment. Just replaced the master cylinder( £52.17p from german and swedish but wawtch out there are two listed at different prices but are both identical!!!) only to find out that the clutch pipe was leakin due to the fact that the flexible part of the pipe is pourous, price for the pipe is about £56 from saab, i opted to have a solid pipe made up instead so there was no chance of leaking but had problems trying to source the female union on the end of the flexi pipe. The local car shop that i go to only had 10mm unions and the one that you requir is 12mm.so had to go to a pipe maker4 that supplies lorry parts and they got me one from a ford cargo brake pipe!!!!, if you go this way and have problems drop me a line and i will give you there phone number


best of luck

mark
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
worth trying local hydraulic suppliers, I took my old pipe to them, they cut the flex off removed the crimped part of the unions and crimped a section of flex on with my old unions, total cost £5.

Have never tried the pukka bleed kit, but being tight as a gnats chuff, I tend to opt for the cheaper option.

Mark, what is there to the gunson bleeder, does it make the job "significantly easier"? Only asking because I have been putting off a full brake bleed for several weeks now and if it means paying £10-15 to turn a 1.5hr job into a 15 min job then I may be tempted to get 1.

Cheers,

Pete
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
243 Posts
the gunson bleeder has a resevoir for fluid and a pipe that attaches to your spare wheel and uses the pressure from spare wheel to force the fluid through when you open the bleed nipples, saves a hell of a lot of time as there is no need to pump the peddle and keep locking of the nipple to check the pressure.
a word of warning though if you use one dont let the bleeders resevoir go empty and when you have to fill it up remove the lead from the spare tyre or you get covered in brake fluid( i know from experience), the bleeder costs about £12 - £ 13 from most car spares shops
hope that helps
mark
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top