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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got another couple of questions... firstly, it looks like I'll need a new clutch before too long. The pedal is very heavy, the biting point is quite low to the floor, and selecting reverse is very hard sometimes (I know that could be the linkage, but with the other symptoms, it's unlikely).

Question is, has anyone done a clutch change DIY? I hear its a nasty job... my local cheap mechanic refuses to do it! He says once was enough...

Anyone got any experience?

My other question is: what is the usual cause of booming when under load at low revs? I think that's what it's called... when you get a loud, deep vibration through the car body. I know all cars do it to some extent if you need a lower gear... this one seems to do it a lot though.
 

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Clutch change on a 9000 really means the gearbox coming out... so it's not an easy DIY job.

As for the noise, it could be either a problem with engine mounts being worn or with the exhaust system. If it's exhaust, it could be bad aligment and/or a failed rubber hanger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the answer. I realise you have to take the gearbox out. I believe you have to remove some chassis part to do that? How heavy is the gearbox too... and do you have to support the engine while you do it? I guess the gearbox has to come out downwards.

Thing is, I hear it's about £500 and I guess most of that is labour, so it would be worth doing if it were possible... but if it's a total, total swine of a job then I guess I better remortgage my dog or something and pay to have it done.
 

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I got a clutch, m & s cylinder fitted to my old 9000t a year or so ago. And remember going in to see what was involved, and yep it's a pretty big job g/box out.
The car was up on the 4 posters, but the thing was Europarts gave him a faulty slave but like as he said (guy in gar) you dont know its faulty till you get everything back in place,he was not happy at all.
What should have been a 1 day job ended up a week because of this.It cost me £370 he didnt charge for the extra time, which I thought was decent.He "chinned" Europarts for that ,then what do I do, I go and sell the car so someone else can the benefit of the new clutch
 

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John, the last time my gearbox was out (to have an oil seal replaced) it took the specialist three hours to do the whole job. They did it while I waited. It would have taken less had they not had problems lining up the input shaft with the clutch so for a decent Saab specialist, that should be the maximum. Add say 1/2 hour to do the clutch itself (at a guess), then multiply by a sensible rate (around £50/hour at my specialist).

My specialist is a pretty long way from Dorset, though, but other Saab specialists should at least not be afraid to quote for the job.

Last time I looked, a 9000 clutch kit was about £135 + VAT. Add another £70 + VAT or so for a slave cylinder which it is folly not to change at the same time.

I'm told a lot of places, including Saab dealers, don't take it out from below as they're supposed to. This makes the job take a lot longer.

The engine does need to be supported and while a garage will suspend it from above, a trolley jack and a plank of wood will do the job. I know Alan_b has done this job on his '95 Aero so it's definitely possible to DIY.
 

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Originally posted by JohnCC:
[qb]I believe you have to remove some chassis part to do that?[/qb][/b]
You need to unbolt the lower ball-joint on the left-hand side, then remove a few bolts on th subframe and the left-hand side of the subframe will hange down out of the way. This is specifically designed to facilitate gearbox removal.

The gearbox is pretty heavy but can be carried by one person. Another trolley jack is recommended to support it as you disengage it from the engine and the right-hand driveshaft.
 

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I've done a clutch swap on my own and yes it was a rather long job but very cost effective but the one tip that I can pass on, is that you are best using a support beam across the engine bay to hold the engine, BUT a Saab mechanic friend of mine has put another hook onto his beam to support the gearbox as well so you don't actually take the gearbox out, you just swing it out of the way and thus you don't have to disconnect the hydraulics, unless of course you are replacing the slave, which, as BillJ says is a MUST if you have the engine and box seperated.
 

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John, you should really look at Quasimotors site quasimotors transmission removal procedure He has some very nice pictures and the procedure is very well documented. As Bill mentioned, the hardest part to this job is mating the transaxle back to the engine - aligning the input shaft to the engine and the output shaft to the intermediate shaft takes care and patience. If not aligned properly, it's very easy to break the support for the bearing at the far end of the intermediate shaft - don't ask why I know this
 

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I too am at the end of my 9000 Turbo's clutch. At least I assume it is, whenever I accelerate hard in 3rd the revs leap but the car moves no faster. There's no way I'm attempting to remove the gearbox, it's far too tough for me, so would anyone recommend a mechanic to do the job for me please? I can't afford genuine Saab mechanics prices, but I don't mind paying well for a job well done. I live in Aylesbury Buckinghamshire.
 
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