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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok,I've decided to bite the bulet,after reading the board and replies I've deided the slave cylinder has had it,I've phoned around a few places and most of them quote the monetary defecit of a South American country to do the job,£400-700 which is way beyond my meagre allowance from her indoors!
So I've decided to do the job myself,can anyone point me as what problems I'm likely to encounter and likely cost involved?
The car is a late 93 2000 CSE,the job will be done on the drive,I've booked the weekend away from her who must be obeyed and bought some latex gloves and my Halfords socket set is poised!!!
 

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Whyme,
Sorry cant help on the fitting of the clutch/slave cylinder,altough i had one replaced over the weekend in my CDS by getting the local specialists bods to do it on a saturday (£200).
I had to supply the parts which weren't to bad price wise. Clutch's go for about £80-95 for a quality SACHS/LUK, the slave cylinder for you vehicle,i think, will only be a genuine part (even if you get it from a specalilst) for about £65-70.If you need a clutch master cylinder another £43-50 which is easier to replace with the box' out (i am told ). Also worth replacing the rear flywheel seal £4-6 (just to be safe ). These are specialist prices from the likes of German & Swedish/ecp.
Expensive but should still work out cheaper than a main agent price,unless you can haggle with them.
Happy clutching
G.
 

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I did one a couple of years ago, like you in my drive way and it wasn't an easy task.
You will need to find some way of supporting the engine when you remove the gearbox mount and subframe. I used a collection of large wooden blocks under the engine and a wooden batten across the inner wings to take the weight of the gearbox. I had a strap around the gearbox and using a small chain hoist attached to the batten was able manipulate the gearbox off the shaft and lower it to the ground. Re-fitting was the reverse proceedure. Took me about 3 hours to get the box out and probably slightly less to get it back in again and re-assemble everything.
Best of luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Gulp!!!!!
Well I'm committed now,oh well thanks everyone!
I've seen the parts on euro carparts,seem reasonable and I've got a week to do the job so hopefully it should go ok
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok,I'm about to pull the transmission away from the engine,the Haynes manual mentions disconnecting the intermediate drive from the transmission,is this difficult or will the transmission just slide away nice and easy,don't want to go heaving and pulling and risk breaking anything.
Any help most appreciated
 

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The transaxle should slide out without disconnecting the intermediate shaft. It's putting it back together that get's tricky if the intermediate shaft is still attached. Because there's two splined shafts ( the input shaft and the output shaft ) that have have to be aligned
(to the clutch plate and the intermediate shaft), the transaxle may not easily bolt back up to the engine. Especially the splines on the output shaft - if they're not properly aligned then it's very easy to break the bearing support bracket - don't ask why I know this! I would highly recommend removing the intermediate shaft
and the bearing support bracket, but after you've removed the transaxle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well the job is done,everything went well (touch wood ) only snag was the speedo stopped working after,then I noticed i'd forgot to connect the switch on the rear of the transmission,so touch wood again alls well,for the price of a slave cylinder overhaul kit and a new clutch total £62 I'm back on the road again.
The old clutch was barely worn,even with 186000 on the clock,so next on the list is a rear box and I'll be happy
 
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