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hello all. i need advice re my 97 2.0lpt 9000 maptun stage 3 i have recently had new clutch fitted with a skimmed flywheel, but i do have to much torque for the standard clutch, slipping under load in 2/3/4/5th. what options do i have? does anyone have uprated clutch fitted on same car.
 

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I think that your problem could just be that you have skimmed your flywheel - unless you also skimmed the surface where you bolt the pressure plate.

If you just skimmed the area for the friction plate the force from the pressure plate will be less than before and with the extra power from Maptun it can't cope with it...
 

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Not the same model I know, but I have a CSE 2.3FPT with Maptun stage 3 and had the same problem, loads of slip in the high gears mainly. I had the pressure plate replaced recently with a Sachs sports one but using a new standard Saab friction plate. Result... no slip At the moment the "bite" point is quite low on the pedal, I'm hoping it will wear in a bit as it can be a tad clunky if the pedal isn't pressed right to the floor, however it does seem to be a pretty smooth action i.e. no problem holding it on the clutch on hills etc.

Matt
 

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I agree with Friberg. That's the first place to check. Been there done it. Used a different engineering shop after that (one where the JCB drivers go )
 

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I'll add a qualified disagreement* with sgould and Friberg


As long as the skimming of the flywheel was only very slight*, then in practice it's no different than having a slightly worn clutch. When I took mine apart (admittedly using a paddle but slightly over AP's rated torque capacity for it) it transpired that previously some idiot had taken over 5mm off the flywheel (lightening?) yet before I fitted the AP clutch I was only just getting slip in 4th. I estimate that between the flywheel, the worn pressure plate and clutch it must have been about 10mm less compared to new components as a total assembly, yet was still holding OK.

The problem is the springs on the pressure plate aren't exerting enough pressure to stop the clutch slipping- did you have the pressure plate replaced as well, or just the friction plate?

Over time, the pressure plate springs become "tired". A new stock pressure plate (if not already fitted) might cure the problem, but it may be safer to opt for an uprated pressure plate now as the labour involded is about the same as the price differential between a stock and uprated plate.

Having said that, there are other folk running stage 3 without any slippage problems...
 

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I can throw in 2 cents here - I can't speak for 2.0's, but I do know that 2.3's that are 'tuned' usually develop slip, because of the pressure plate. Mine had slip with very mild software (229 whp, stock ic, 3" exhaust, snorkel removed and extra holes) on a clutch that had less than 10k miles. Upon disassembly, the clutch had plenty of material left. I replaced the pp with the Sachs Race Engineering one and a stock clutch plate. Now, with slightly higher tuning, stage 4, and ~20k miles, the only evidence of slip occurs from the tires (Firestone SZ-50's, essentially same compound (UNI-T) as the S-O3's, but have a different tread design).

Unfortunately, I heard thru the grapevine that Sachs is no longer supplying the Race Engineering version in the 'states anymore. They certainly weren't cheap - things usually are - and the pricing was very volatile I had been offered one 6 months earlier for a little over $200. 6 mo's later, when I bought it, it was over $500. Mine came from Sweden, but I think it was probably made in Germany. Anyway, if it's still available over there and if anyone has ideas of tuning their 2.3, I'd consider it a must-have, eventually.
 

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I never saw any slip with std clutch (60 k miles)
with 285 hp afw...

I lightened the flywheel and the clutch just about would not disengage (new sachs)
 

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Ylee, does that 'afw' mean at the front wheels? I find it hard to fathom how one can get 285 hp at the wheels and not have the pressure plate slip. If it's truly 285 hp @ wheels, what mod's are involved? I haven't dynoed my 'new' software, yet, but with a larger intercooler, green-giants, and 1.65 bar of peak boost, I'd be surprised if the whp were as high as yours.
 

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at the flywheel..

more significantly it had 316 ft lb of torque as well which is probably more significant when looking at clutch slip...
btw its got 360 bhp/400 ft lbs now....
(with no clutch slip....)
A bit less than expected so its off to maptun on friday for some custom re-mapping
looking for 400 +....
 

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going to stage 7?? which i thought used to be stage 6 ( ) thats 440bhp....
custom maptun software.. could be a fun write-up if you are allowed to take pics...
 

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stage 7 is another step up
dfferences are ..
ported head
bigger i/c to manif0ld tube
and extractor manifold
and software

Got all of these bar the manifold
so we will see ..
 

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My experience is that at around 300bhp the stock set up will give up the ghost. I put in a new pressure plate and drive plate plus I had the flywheel resurfaced and after a few weeks of 311bhp and 320lb/ft driving it began to slip in 3rd and 4th. I ended up buying an AP racing drive plate for GBP150 and that has firmly put an end to any slipping.

Alanb
 

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I had LSD and a new clutch last June with a standard Aero and wound it up to 285bhp/310ftlb in September and have had no slip yet (3 trackdays and 12k miles later).

Andrew
 
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