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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I went to get a couple of new tyres and I was talking to the guy as he put the car on a lifting ramp, slid the jacking bars, and started putting blocks under the rear axle tube.

I said "You can't jack these up on the rear axle, mate." "Really?" "Yep." "Right..."

Much head scratching, before he realised with this ramp design there was no way to jack the car up. So, down goes the ramp, car comes off, and they use a couple of trolley jacks instead.

Thank God I was hanging around! Makes me wonder how many times it's been done before. Maybe I get a four wheel alignment.

I popped in to the garage where I got my MOT a couple of days ago, and they had a Fester up on the ramp.. the same type of ramp. Ouch.
 

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It's all to do with a lack of training by these so called professionals. I took my old Porsche to a certain high street tyre/exhaust specialist, left the car, went for a coffee, came back to a car hovering in the air on 4 jacks placed under the SILLS. Arrrgghh, the car now had 4 flat spots and was in dire of some tender loving care.

They just don't give a [email protected]##!, watch them like a hawk, plus I make sure that I know the correct way to jack each car I own.
 

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I had to change the rear axle tube on my 9000 a several months ago. About a week after I bought it, I noticed that if you looked at the car from the rear, the wheels did not sit square on the ground, sort of like this : |-----/

There are no signs of the chassis being bent, panels being resprayed on the corner in question. I have asked several garages and all seems perfrecly normal.

I assumed that a previous owner must have lost the back end and hit a kerb or something, but maybe it was a dodgy mechanic?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Leon: it's good to know the MOT place probably didn't jack the car up on the axle.. they seem pretty professional there. But I was just thinking of all the times in the past, especially with previous owners... best not to think about it.

I was wondering about painting the axle black and yellow and writing "DO NOT JACK HERE" on it, but I fear even that would not be enough.

I think watching them like a hawk is the only way. Besides - it's not like there's anyting better to do while they are doing it.

The other thing that really bugs me, while we're on the subject, is the way they inflate the new tyre to some arbitrary pressure and never ask you what you run your tyres at, or check the other wheel on the axle, let alone check all four. Another good reason to watch them, so you can tell them what pressure you want and ask them to check the others too.

Probably should demand to see calibration certificates for their wheel balancing machine too But that may be taking it too far. Anyone do that?
 

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I had a similar experience when I took my Vitesse to get some new tyres.
The guy drove it up over one of those platforms that has a big scissor lift in the middle.
As the Vitesse has a separate chassis and glass fibre sills that hang about an inch or so lower than the chassis both sills got entirely cracked and squashed as my beloved car was hoistsed up.
Whilst I was watching this this the fellah was happily whittering about how he had 'cut his teeth on cars like this during his apprenticeship'.
Needless to say I was spitting feathers at this bleeding grease monkey.

Now I always watch like a hawk when anybody else touches my cars.

Billy.
 

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Using the standard jacking points with a trolly jack is also a bad idea!

It often crushes the lower jacking point plate upwards - which means that when you stop to change a wheel at side of road, the standard 9000 jack won't slide into the jacking point - so you get completely stranded - until AA 9etc) come along!!

So beware, especially when a garage is swapping wheels (e.g. tyres) front to back (and vica versa) to balance wear, etc.

Even when using a hydraulic (i.e. whole car) lift jack make sure rubber pads or similar are used if swing arms of hydraulic jack locate under Saab 9000 jacking poitns, to help even the pressure and prevent crushing of jacking points!
 

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[email protected]@dy hell
good job I saw this. just doing a bit of a check over on the wifes brakes and got the front done today (Pads out and clean up etc) and would have done exactly as i've done in the past and jacked the car under rear axle bar . Please tell me I haven't wrecked anything. Car has run great since I bought it in '94 and no prob's with alignment etc.

BTW. It's got a very hard brake pedal, too hard for my liking, yet from 50 to 0 on test after the work was no prob' although you had to press hard. Seems I've got servo trouble, any advice?
 

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Well, I've read this many times, and I'm not saying it's the correct way of doing things but I've jacked mine up at the rear by the axle and when I had the car checked for four wheel alignment it was absolutly spot on to Saab specs. So, in answer to your question Keith, you've probably done no damage at all.
Nick.
 

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The rear axle is comparatively thin walled and is likely to be damaged by jacking. If it hasn't, then you've been lucky. One of the general ruls of jacking is "never jack a suspension component"

I really can't understand why people do this when there is a perfectly good (and more accessible) central jacking point on the tow loop
 

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I’m the same as RedSaab. I’ve often jacked my cars from the rear axle.
BUT lucky for me: not my Saab.

Is this a general rule for all cars ?

Or all Saabs?

Specifically in my case:- 1999 9-5 ?

Pete
 

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I use a trolley jack on the lifting points in the centre of the front and rear crossmembers under the bumper of the 9-5. The lift is quite high for a DIY trolley jack. I don't think the Halfords on will do the lift. It needs something with about 480mm (19 inches). Once up, you can put the axle stands under the side jacking points.

I retired my 30 year old trolley jack and bought one of these.
 
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