Cleaning Intercooler
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I also wondered this. I have just received a 2nd hand i/c from TSTT and it looks as though the last owner had turbo problems. The best I could think of was to slosh in petrol, swill it around well to disolve the oil residue, empty and leave to dry (for several days!). Haven't yet tried, but will this remove synthetic oil residue?
I'm currently awaiting the bottom bracket before I can fit the unit so I have time.
They also sent two pipes to connect to the inlet manifold, one with the temp sensor and DV connection (as mine is at present), and one with an additional small bore rubber hose. This is shown on the EPC diagrams but not not where it connects to. Can anyone advise on which I should use, bearing in mind the intention to fit a Stage 1 ECU kit when I can find one. (I have never managed to get my head around the APC bits on the car yet as previous posts have suggested the LPT without i/c is different to others).
I'm currently awaiting the bottom bracket before I can fit the unit so I have time.
They also sent two pipes to connect to the inlet manifold, one with the temp sensor and DV connection (as mine is at present), and one with an additional small bore rubber hose. This is shown on the EPC diagrams but not not where it connects to. Can anyone advise on which I should use, bearing in mind the intention to fit a Stage 1 ECU kit when I can find one. (I have never managed to get my head around the APC bits on the car yet as previous posts have suggested the LPT without i/c is different to others).
How about lots of hot water and a suitable surfactant, like washing up detergent or a hard surface (floor) cleaner? I used a floor cleaner in the cooling system of a chum's Golf that had got oil in the coolant. Cleaned up a treat.
I would be tempted to plug one end, add a large quantity of surfactant and fill with boiling water. Repeat until clean. To flush out, ideally flow hot water up the intercooler, i.e. insert shower hose in the bottom, so that you can be sure all the channels are flushed. It is important to get all the oily stuff off the inside as a liquid boundary layer will cause increased pressure loss as well as reducing the heat transfer.
If hot water and detergent proves insufficient, I'd pour in a can of Jizer or Gunk, plug the ends and shake it around for 5 minutes, before using the hot water and detergent again.
I would be tempted to plug one end, add a large quantity of surfactant and fill with boiling water. Repeat until clean. To flush out, ideally flow hot water up the intercooler, i.e. insert shower hose in the bottom, so that you can be sure all the channels are flushed. It is important to get all the oily stuff off the inside as a liquid boundary layer will cause increased pressure loss as well as reducing the heat transfer.
If hot water and detergent proves insufficient, I'd pour in a can of Jizer or Gunk, plug the ends and shake it around for 5 minutes, before using the hot water and detergent again.
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As the supplier of haggags dodgy i/c I would think the best way to clean out the oil residue is the petrol option
that way if there is any left the engine will just burn it ....
that way if there is any left the engine will just burn it ....
Also, I should have mentioned this in the last reply, perchloroethylene seems to be an effective solvent for IC's. Same stuff as brake cleaner - also used in drycleaning and for cleaning/degreasing metals. Careful cleanin' out the perc' though - don't use castrol super clean or anything else with NaOH in it for that matter, as it will etch the aluminum.
Thanks for all your replys, its strange no replys for days and then 6 come along. Will use some non-flammable cleaner from the work. Alan G where are you getting bottom bracket from ?
Saab wanted £12 for 4 rubber bushes and then £9ish for a new metal bracket, i struggle with their pricing at times.
TIA Haggag01
Saab wanted £12 for 4 rubber bushes and then £9ish for a new metal bracket, i struggle with their pricing at times.
TIA Haggag01
Alan G,
I contacted maptun about upgrading the ecu after fitting i/c and was told that for £400 I could get 225
![]()
bhp on the B204S engine.
The downside the ecu has to go to sweden and that is a 7-10 day turnaround. But that works out at 7-10bhp per day gain each day it is away. I can live with that, just need to get the damn i/c in.
p.s. hot water and fairy liquid did a lovely job.
I contacted maptun about upgrading the ecu after fitting i/c and was told that for £400 I could get 225
The downside the ecu has to go to sweden and that is a 7-10 day turnaround. But that works out at 7-10bhp per day gain each day it is away. I can live with that, just need to get the damn i/c in.
p.s. hot water and fairy liquid did a lovely job.
Haggag01
I was following earlier posts where I thought you had obtained a bottom bracket. I bought the i/c and plumbing as a kit from TSTT but no brackets were in the pack. I am trying to get the brackets from them but they say that theirs are welded to the car. My current brackets appear to be bolted in various ways.
I am still trying to work out the fitting. From reading Haynes I gather it is sandwiched between the rad and the condenser. The RH bracket appears to have a mounting hole for it but not the left one, so I assume that this is the one which needs to be changed. Haynes also talks about bolts connecting the i/c to the condenser but I cannot see where this would happen.
I have tried the petrol cleaning method today (living dangerously but it will not be fitted for a few weeks, and I still need to sort out the brackets/fixings). Very little actually came out and the petrol was only a little discoloured.
I was following earlier posts where I thought you had obtained a bottom bracket. I bought the i/c and plumbing as a kit from TSTT but no brackets were in the pack. I am trying to get the brackets from them but they say that theirs are welded to the car. My current brackets appear to be bolted in various ways.
I am still trying to work out the fitting. From reading Haynes I gather it is sandwiched between the rad and the condenser. The RH bracket appears to have a mounting hole for it but not the left one, so I assume that this is the one which needs to be changed. Haynes also talks about bolts connecting the i/c to the condenser but I cannot see where this would happen.
I have tried the petrol cleaning method today (living dangerously but it will not be fitted for a few weeks, and I still need to sort out the brackets/fixings). Very little actually came out and the petrol was only a little discoloured.
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the i/c fits into what I would describe as rubber grommets in front of the radiator behind the condenser
there are two locating pins on the bottom for this
you might have to drill a coupla holes...
the top is located in position by a pin in the middle of the i/c which fits into another grommet in a bracket that is located on the front cross member
This can be made up from these multi holed strips you can get in any car accessory shop in the audio section..the holes do fit and are in the right spacing
(I have re-built the front of my carly and this was a missing piece )
there are two locating pins on the bottom for this
you might have to drill a coupla holes...
the top is located in position by a pin in the middle of the i/c which fits into another grommet in a bracket that is located on the front cross member
This can be made up from these multi holed strips you can get in any car accessory shop in the audio section..the holes do fit and are in the right spacing
(I have re-built the front of my carly and this was a missing piece )
Thanks ylee. The RH bracket looks OK but the LH dosen't look (or feel) as though it has the large hole for the rubber bush. Will find out when I remove the rad. I have the top bracket but this looks like a restraint only and does not support the i/c or condenser. ATM I can't see how the condenser is fixed to the i/c for support, and the top fridge connection looks as though it will foul the body if moved forward.
BTW, I tried the brake cleaner and this did seem to remove more from in the i/c, although it might have been lossened by the petrol.
BTW, I tried the brake cleaner and this did seem to remove more from in the i/c, although it might have been lossened by the petrol.
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4,215 Posts
top bracket only holds it in position....
condenser screws to i/c at the bottom
with a self tapper into the plastic side pod of the i/c..you will see the holes
(ignore the tab on the side of the condenser these are there to confuse ....)
condenser screws to i/c at the bottom
with a self tapper into the plastic side pod of the i/c..you will see the holes
(ignore the tab on the side of the condenser these are there to confuse ....)
Thanks Haggag01. Might have to resort to this (couldn't find it in the EPC). Will try to get it from supplier first as I was sold a 'kit' which I thought should include brackets and bushes. Cant see the necessary area on the existing bracket but I assume that it does not have the large hole. it seems to be fixed with 3 small bolts, two from below into speednuts and one on top where it slots into the x-member.
Which tube do you have to fit between the i/c discharge and throttle body? As above, they sent me 2 types and I still don't know what the extra small pipe is for.
Info on ECU is interesting - is it just the ECU or is there anything to change re APC valve etc? It would be difficult to be without a car for that time. I was going to try for a second hand stage 1 but they are rare for a 2.0LPT. Could try to get an ECU from a breaker to send away but breakers are expensive in the south (wanted £100 for a Clio ECU for my son a couple oy years ago!!).
Which tube do you have to fit between the i/c discharge and throttle body? As above, they sent me 2 types and I still don't know what the extra small pipe is for.
Info on ECU is interesting - is it just the ECU or is there anything to change re APC valve etc? It would be difficult to be without a car for that time. I was going to try for a second hand stage 1 but they are rare for a 2.0LPT. Could try to get an ECU from a breaker to send away but breakers are expensive in the south (wanted £100 for a Clio ECU for my son a couple oy years ago!!).
You could try to find one from a non-Saab breaker as the Saab specialists seem to want to charge the earth for an ECU. And none of the ones I approached could be convinced that I didn't need *exactly* the right ECU part number (1996 Aero manual with VSS). Tried telling them any '94-on ECU from any type of 9000 turbo would do but they wanted to charge me up to £200-odd for the "right one"! From '94-on, the different part numbers simply represent different software for the various applications. The first thing Maptun will do is erase the existing software...
I believe any ECU from an NG900 turbo will also work, but I'm not 100% sure.
With the current US dollar exchange rate being so favourable, you might also consider trying one of the US breakers such as Goldwing Saab. ECUs seem a lot cheaper there. I eventually got a friend in the US to source one for me in exchange for $100-worth of Superflex bushes. Don't know where he got it from, though.
I believe any ECU from an NG900 turbo will also work, but I'm not 100% sure.
With the current US dollar exchange rate being so favourable, you might also consider trying one of the US breakers such as Goldwing Saab. ECUs seem a lot cheaper there. I eventually got a friend in the US to source one for me in exchange for $100-worth of Superflex bushes. Don't know where he got it from, though.
Hello Alan G,
not sure what EPC you have but try engine/ cooling system 1994/1998 and you will see pic or radiator and bottom brackets or do a search with the no: I supplied. As for 3 holes I do not know, ours only needs d/v inlet and temp sensor ? as far as I am aware.
I have not sourced an inlet pipe yet (myself and Ylee are working on a small project, very hush-hush.)
Need to keep in contact with each other as we are both working on same project.
Haggag01
not sure what EPC you have but try engine/ cooling system 1994/1998 and you will see pic or radiator and bottom brackets or do a search with the no: I supplied. As for 3 holes I do not know, ours only needs d/v inlet and temp sensor ? as far as I am aware.
I have not sourced an inlet pipe yet (myself and Ylee are working on a small project, very hush-hush.)
Need to keep in contact with each other as we are both working on same project.
Haggag01
Hi Haggag01
Found the part on EPC thanks - I was looking under charge cooler. Still not sure if the fitted part is suitable or not. EPC seems to show different brackets but not explain which derivative they are used in. I don't have a spare car so I am trying to get all parts together before taking mine apart.
I had assumed previously that only the ECU needed changing but then saw comments I could not understand about changing the BPCV (which I thought was only a solenoid valve controlled by the ECU taking a signal from the MAP sensor?).
Pity you are around 800 miles away, still if you are ever in TW.....
Alan
Found the part on EPC thanks - I was looking under charge cooler. Still not sure if the fitted part is suitable or not. EPC seems to show different brackets but not explain which derivative they are used in. I don't have a spare car so I am trying to get all parts together before taking mine apart.
I had assumed previously that only the ECU needed changing but then saw comments I could not understand about changing the BPCV (which I thought was only a solenoid valve controlled by the ECU taking a signal from the MAP sensor?).
Pity you are around 800 miles away, still if you are ever in TW.....
Alan
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