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Thanks Dan.

The pedal and assembly I will have to source at a breakers YES??

Which is the best to look for??

Strongest I suppose as the action of the clutch is heavy!!

Thanks again.

Alwyn Magee.
 

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Re mk3 Astra clutch pedal and cable.

Managed to source the complete pedal box at my local breakers for £10 and a brand new cable on E.bay for £8.

The cables are the same in all respects apart from the silly F**k up of an automatic adjusting system. The pedal is the same except for the top where to cable hooks on.

So I guess an hour or so to fit it and fingers crossed I have the problem cured.

Have already checked the alingment and changed the gear oil to the new semi syn. , after the flushes.

Many thanks ASTRA DAN.

Alwyn magee.
 

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Hi. All,

Finally got a dry afternoon and did the business on that clutch cable and pedal.

Took about 2 hours from start to test drive and boy is it a million times better.

Smooth gear changes, no rasping to put it into reverse.

Hopefully I've nursed the box and clutch well enough to last for the next 100k miles.

Begs the question "Why the hell didn't Saab/GM. do this in the first place?"

MK3 Astras are ten a penny so guys get out there and do the mod..

More than a bodge and will help your mental health no end.

Again many thanks to ASTRA DAN.

This is my last word on the subject.

AMEN.

Alwyn Magee.
 

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Electric mirror switch.

If it's a bit sloppy in one or two directions the keypad membrane may be worn (in which case it requires replacement) but if it's only just started playing up, the PCB may just be a bit grubby.

remove the switch, and with a flatbladed screwdriver, carfeully prize the face/button casing off the rear of the switch. Remove the membrane and, using a CLEAN eraser, gently rub over the metal contacts on the PCB. If you have any, contact cleaner can be used to give a final clean of the PCB. Put it back together and you may just find it works again!
 

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Correct. Had to prise the multi tabs away (still managed to brake a couple) and got access to the inside of my unit. The voltmetre was not showing any contact. Sprayed some sparky PCB cleaner and by the end of the day all contacts had been re-established. It is grimme being deposited on the contacts that could cost you £45 +VAT if you don't have a go at this quick-fix......and if the unit has to be changed anyway there is nothing to loose in attempting this repair.
 

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Of course if it does need to be replaced, you can get a vauxhall vectra/astra switch (check whether yours has wires exiting it, or if it's a plug connection). Vauxhall switches are reverse wired so Up = down and left = right, but the keypad membrane is identical.

So you have two choices.
1: mount the switch upside down
2: remove the keypad membrane and use that in your existing switch.

I advise the latter since your dash switches will have faded/aged, and you don't want it standing out.
 

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.......And how much are those Vauxhall switches new????[/b]
Don't know, there's some homework for you! But they are definitely more plentiful!
I got a fully working one from a breakers yard for £6 and just used the membrane.
 

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interesting method for the mirror switch! do you think the same solution would work for the memory switch module for the electric seats too? i recently took apart one of these as mine seemed to have packed up and realised that the contact point between the 'M' button and other memory presets was slightly discoloured.
 

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SUN ROOF LEAKS ON MY 1997 NG900. I PUT A BEAD OF SILICONE SEALANT WITH MY FINGER ALL THE WAY AROUND THE JOINT BETWEEN THE GLASS AND CARRYING FRAME. SEEMS TO WORK.
 

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Don't know if this counts but I put a bulb in the left hand rear fog light earlier as it was missing.

Presume they are without the bulb from factory?
 

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Inspired by this thread in the 9-5 forum, I encourage all 900 and 9-3 owners to share their quick fixes.

I'll start with my top-tip: when your ACC cabin air temperature sensor fan gets noisy, pop it out and replace it upside-down. It'll give you another year or so of quiet motoring .[/b]
Rather than reinstall the fan upside down (as I'd imagine there's a logical reason it's installed a certain way), pull out the fan assembly (it comes out from the back of the panel, the front guard pops out forwards and both heated seat buttons + blanks will need to come out), disconnect from loom and prise apart the fan boddy from the housing. Using a damp cotton bud, clean up all the dust and [expletive deleted] which has built up over the fan blades and spindle over time. Spray the locating points of the spindle, and the point where the fan sits with some form of PTFE or Teflon lubricant. reassemble, connect to loom, cover with tissue and switch ignition on. This'll fling any residue/excess lube. Refit to car - voila, quiet fan.
 

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Hi Saab guys, not sure if this one is recorded yet...... but here you go.

This will save you £50.....

ACC error code 02..

This one probably means that the flimsy little pcb board in the sensor next to heated seat switch, has snapped on one side, creating an open circuit.

I got my guitar tutor to use his soldering skills to help. here is the fix.

1. Remove the blank switches or heated seat switches, reach through and up and gently push out the ACC control panel - NOT the sensor.
2. Do not disconnect the ACC Control module, not nessesary. Just let hang to one side, this gives you loads of room to remove the sensor.
3. Unplug the sensor, then remove the front cover, now remove sensor - it comes out backwards, the top and bottom clips on front should be pushed gently in and wiggle it back and away.
4. The sensor can now be removed from the dash, make sure it is unplugged. the fan will still spin after engine and ignition is OFF!
5. Now, firstly clean that fan, it will probably be full of dust, use a paint brush and when it is all nice and clean add a tiny-winy bit of lub to the spindle. (No more squeaking!)
6. On the front of the exposed sensor you will see a green PCB board with only two connectors, In and Out of the little resistor thingy.
Notice that the PCB board is cracked or broken on one or both sides.
7. First job is to un-solder the little wire on the broken side of the board and move it away.
8. Use a good, appropriate glue to repair the pcb board and allow to dry and become a nice solid fit again.
9. Now simply add an extra 1" piece of wire to the already removed wire and solder it directly to the same side of the resistor's wire
, ON the wire, NOT the resistor itself.
10. When all is secured and solid, tuck extra wire in, notice the recess, make sure it is NOT touching the fan.

Now gently, very gently reassemble and reconnect.
You may have to fiddle about so that the front cover fits nicely too.

Once all the dash and ACC controller is back in Start engine and run dianostic again, (AUTO+OFF)and the 02 error will hopefully be gone, (if no further errors display will be 0)Now you can spend the saved £50 on flowers for your long suffering Saab-Widow wife.

Cheers

1st post- feedback?
 

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I've just done this "repair" myself - seems to have done the trick.

Realistically cannot see any way of doing this other than to take the side panel off, push the sensor unit through the panel, rotate 180 then push it back through

Taking the side panel off it the time consuming bit, but beats a replacement sensor at £50+ plus
B_Cal[/b]
just remove acc control unit just lever it out with blunt object then remove ash tray you can then remove the two plastic blanks one on each side then remove sensor by inserting a flat blade screw driver at top or bottom retaining tag and it pops out then clean dust out of fan with a kids art brush oh remeber to see which way the sensor is in dash then replace upside down easy.........
 

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If your indicator and wiper stalks are a bit loose, it is probably like mine due to the plastic casing of the switches becoming loose in the aluminium brackets after years of use. Simple fix to stop them moving was to remove the cowl around the switches (3 screws) and remove the switches. I used a bit of plastic (cut from a Carte D'Or ice cream container) cut to fit inside the groove on the top of the swithes (about 3mm wide and about 15mm long). Remove the switch from the bracket, hold the bit of plastic inside the groove so it is between the groove and the bracket iand push the switch back in so the plastic is trapped between the groove and the bracket, taking up the slack. Both switches are now solid as a rock with no free movement before they operate.
 
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