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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have to replace the rear calipers on my 93 CS
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Is the bleeding procedure really as simple as Haynes describes i.e. open bleed valve, turn ignition on, and get someone to press the brake pedal to pressurise the system?

Secondly, has anyone had experience of using hose clamps on Stainless braided hoses? Or should I just stand by with the new caliper and get it on smartish?
 

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I'm not a big fan of hose clamps myself, never too sure what they are doing to the insides of your hoses. I changed a caliper a while ago. I just screwed it back on quickly! I have never got the Haynes bleeding system to work. I suspect the references to a pressurised system refer to earlier cars. I bleed the rears just like the front, with the help of someone to pump the pedal whilst I twiddle the bleed nipple. The replacement caliper did come with a strongly worded warning, which was something to do with not operating or attaching the handbrake until everything else was bled and adjusted.

It was all very straightforward.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Originally posted by Mark B:
[qb]  I suspect the references to a pressurised system refer to earlier cars. [/qb][/b]
I think you're right, Mark. I've never heard a pump run on my 93 9000, but I have on my 89 900.

I'll give it a go tonight- 2 new calipers from GSF are sitting in the car now and I've got plenty of spare brake fluid, just need to find a large bucket of swear


Cheers

Mark
 

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I would not clamp the hoses, internally they will be PTFE which does not flex like rubber and they would be damaged.

To bleed the rears on my 1993 with mark IV abs I find it better to run the abs pump - remove the pump relay and connect across a wire and switch. Do not switch on the ignition so abs ecu not affected. Then with the pump running for a short while open the bleed nipple. Do not run for more than about a minute then leave for a few minutes to cool. I got this from, I think, the 9000 web site on this board. Without, the rears are difficult to bleed. Also helps to get the last bit of air out of the caliper if it is bled off the hub so that the nipple is at the high point with somebody on the pedal and a block of wood to stop the piston coming out.
 

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You can always use one-way bleed nipples. It saves having someone to mash the pedal and having to lock and unlock the nipple between pedal depressions.

Availible through motorcycle disributors (MPS etc.08707 777333) or use a length of tube with a one way valve in the end of it.

Nick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hmm... mixed success
.

LH caliper fitted OK (that was the bust one) and I thought it had bled thru OK. I left it open whilst I was fighting with the RH one and then pumped the pedal a bit, no more bubbles seemed to come out. However on a test driver the brakes are definitely spongey, so there must still be some air in there. I'll have to enlist a "slave" later in the week .

Couldn't get hold of a brake spanner, and yes, you guessed it, managed to round the RH hose nut without succeeding in undoing it.

Still, that caliper only has a mild weep of fluid, and I was intending to change the SS hoses anyway as they're coming up on 2 years old.
 
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