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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
 My Carly burned the GTX Magnatec oil that ***** ******* (garage I bought it from) filled it with, so when I took it back to them for a 6 month service I insisted on fully synth. Voila, no more puffs of smoke from the exhaust.[/b]
Guys,
First, thanks for the usefull info (as always )posted under the "Cam Chain Noise" thread, re adverse effects of Castrol GTX Magnatec.

I have been contemplating whether to switch from the lower SJ grade FULLY Synthetic Mobile 1 (0W40) to the higher SL grade SEMI Synthetic Castrol GTX Magnatec recently. Mainly because Magnatex is around £20 (4.5L) whereas Mobile 1 is £30 approx (Halfords current sale price is £28!) (4.0L) plus another £10 for the extra 1L. Capacity of the 9000 being 4.5L.

Looks like I am going to stick with Mobile 1, unless anyone can recommend another quality Fully Synthetic oil.

Anyone know the difference between an ACEA SJ and ACEA SL grade? From what I can gather it is to do with the cleaning properties (or similar) rather than lubricating properties. Strange that Magnatex is two grades up on Mobile 1 though.
 

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I was using a chevron synthetic oil £9.99 plus vat out of costco..just after i started to use this stuff...turbo blew
replaced turbo.. still was using oil @1000m/l
changed back to mobil 1 ..stopped using oil completely..
cheap= dear

mobil 1 is only game in town..that halfords price is good.... it is £35/4 ltr in our esso garage
btw abbott use a slightly different grade of mobile 1 i believe
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sounds reassuring in terms of Mobile 1 then.

btw abbott use a slightly different grade of mobile 1 i believe  [/b]
Yes, some of the other members have stated 0W40 is a bit too 'thin' in terms of viscocity, and prefer 15W50 I recollect.

I have stuck with 0W40 Mobile 1 as this is what the Saab dealers (Bristol & Cardiff) have used in the car for the first 90k miles. I haven't noted any problems with it, although engine runs on the cool side especially at optimum speed/air cooling.

Any recommendations on why anyone believes 15W50 (Mobile 1) is better than 0W40 also appreciated.
 

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Ahhhh tribology - never enjoyed it at University and have probably forgotten most of it now......but from what I do remember the lower the 'w' (for winter - yes it's that simple) rating of an oil the more viscous (ie glue like) it becomes at lower temperatures so if you run with 0W-40 in cold weather the longer it will take to warm up and therefore the longer it will take to properly circulate and properly lubricate the top end - but in warmer climates and race engines that are properly warmed up 0W/40 oil will remain more viscous at higher temperatures and therefore protect the engine.......There are tables for this kind of stuff but I would go along with Abbott on this one and always use 15w/50 Mobil 1 or similar for a road car as 9 times out of 10 you are just going to jump in, start it up and drive off and odds are you aren't going to spend 2/3rds of the journey at 6000+rpm are you! (mmmmmm.....!) - but strangely 0W/40 does seem to be less expensive at least round here.
 

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You sure about that, Dave?

I understood that, although each of the two numbers is measured under different conditions, they both obey the rule that a lower value indicated lower viscosity. i.e. a 0w40 would be thinner when cold than a 10w40. Likewise a 10w40 would be thinner when hot than a 10w50.

Further, I thought that one of the advantages of modern synthetic oils was that you could have a 0w40 or 5w50 grade, which was pretty thin for cold starts without sacrificing viscosity at normal running temperature. Watch next time you pour it in. A 0w40 will pour almost like water.

I stand to be corrected, though.
 

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The two numbers indicate cold and hot viscosity.

In the winter you can use 5W40, and it is less viscous at low temps (5)so protects the engine better, and in the summer 15W50 as it wont flow too much when very hot.

If you used a higher cold viscosity oil (20) in the winter, it would take longer to start flowing and the engine would wear more.

If you used a low warm viscosity oil (30?) in the summer under hard driving it may get too hot and become excessivly runny and again not protect the engine.

All in the engine oil bible as linked by Scaero

Abbott use either 10W40 or 10W50 Mobil 1 Cant remember which. I dont think you can buy this viscosity on the high street.

With a decent 5W40 synthetic you cant go too far wrong.
 

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Heresey I know, but if you pop down to your local VW dealer you can get 5 litres of VW Synta Gold fully synthetic for £28 or so...I can't remember the SAE rating but it's pretty good stuff and used in all VAG turbo motors from VW Golf 1.8T to Audi RS6.

My 900 T16S has had it for the last 25k miles, loves it and uses none at all - likewise the Audi S2 I used to have.

Maybe this would be a sales pitch for SAAB branded oil if it wasn't so expensive...
 

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I use "Carlube" fully synthetic oil, but then again I change it every 5000 ish miles. I go and buy 3 or 4 at a time from Woolworths (that well known motorsports store)as its £20 for 5 litres.

I used to use "Morris" lubricants oils but they don't seem available in the Midlands anymore.
 

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Well, this is a few years out of date (circa 1996), but an interesting little snippet I think you'll agree...

My ex wife used to work for Mobil, and they supplied Saab dealerships with oil. Saab wanted to use Mobil 1 and brand it as Saab Turbo Oil, but Mobil refused, insisting that Mobil 1 could only be sold as Mobil 1. So instead they supplied another fully synthetic oil to Saab dealerships...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Great links for oil info, Scaero.

Saab wanted to use Mobil 1 and brand it as Saab Turbo Oil, but Mobil refused, insisting that Mobil 1 could only be sold as Mobil 1. So instead they supplied another fully synthetic oil to Saab dealerships...
 [/b]
Ahh.. so that explains the rather queer scenariio of Saab Dealers selling non-Saab oil (e.g. Mobile 1) contrary to the car manuals which advises using Saab oils! Makes perfect sense!

From what I have gathered from all the postings, Saab engine longlevity (as with any car) is definately dependant on sufficient oil changes and use of a good quality Fully Synthetic oil (even though the Saab spec for LPT's and injected engines allows semi-synthetic).

Mileage between oil changes is not such a significant factor in it's own right. If lots of short journeys, especially in winter, change oil at around 6k (Fully Synthetic) or 3k (ideally) for anything less than fully synthetic. If lots of long runs, especially in warmer conditions (which result in much less condensation occuring in engine) oil change of 10k to 12k (fully synthetic) should be absolutely fine. Probably only a very minor benefit changing fully synthetic at lower interval in such driving conditions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Worth noting from Scero's Oil thing one link

Oil thing one

that it is not recommended uopgrading an older/higher milage engine that has traditionally used a mineral oil to a fully synthetic. Because, the fully sythetic can start lifting carbon etc from off piston bores, etc, resulting in various problems. So make an early decision based upon the history of the car and stick with it!
 

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FWIW, I noticed at my last service at local Saab main dealer that they had switched back to Mobil 1 from some semi-synth stuff (can't remember what, might have been Saab brand). I detected a note of relief about this from the service bod I spoke to. Makes me happier too as this was my first service on new 9-5 Aero.

cheers, martin
 

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Ok lets cut the Bull****.... If i was to change my oil tomorrow (or next week as is more likely) and put in the Standard Mobil 1 0W40 available at Halfords... (Now £33 pounds again but with a free Mclaren F1 model!! wow...) would anyone have any better suggestions to stop me??
 

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Originally posted by EdCarlssonAbbott:
[qb]would anyone have any better suggestions to stop me??[/qb][/b]
Nope. Not as long as you feel you can afford it. I'd do it every time.

And I didn't know Ed Abbott's middle name was Carlsson?
 

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Mileage between oil changes is not such a significant factor in it's own right. If lots of short journeys, especially in winter, change oil at around 6k (Fully Synthetic) or 3k (ideally) for anything less than fully synthetic[/b]
I only do about 7K a year and the trip to work is a short one, in the winter the engine rarely gets fully warmed up during weekday usage. Therefore I make sure to service the car every 6 months to minimise engine wear. I don't change the oil myself as it's a pain in the ass getting rid of it round here so I always take it to Trent Saab.

The oil Trent Saab use is Silkolene Turbolene GTi 15W/50, I know by experience this isn't available from high street stores.
 

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Ladies & Gentlemen,

First of all, thanks to Scaero for the links to "oil things one & two", which are both excellent.

And now a few simple facts:-

Oil companies changed from producing 50 grade oils (eg 5W-50) to 40 grade oils (eg 5W-40) as they have a lower kinematic viscosity when hot and therefore require less power to pump, therefore lower fuel consumption. In the US, 30 grade oils are now common (eg 5W-30) as only they are thin enough to get the EPA's "energy conserving" star rating. The change in cold temperature performance from 10W-40 to 5W-40 and now 0W-40 is to provide better circulation from cold (which is particularly important to Swedes!).

When Castrol and Mobil introduced 0W-40 oils a few years ago, a lot of people including me found that their 1980's car suddenly started to use oil. Modern cars have different oil seals, pump, piston ring, and bearing tolerances and better valve seals to cope with the thinner oils, whilst 1980's cars just drank the stuff, ask any 911 owner (no I don't have one). In DIRECT response to this, Mobil brought out Mobil 1, 15W-50 Motorsport, and Castrol brought out Castrol Formula RS 10W-60 (and old 911 owners stopped crying). My own oil consumption for a 1985 sports car went back to zero.

In the US, Mobil 1 is available in 5 grades: 0W-30, 5W-30 and 10W-30 to get the EPA's star, 0W-40 for European cars, and 15W-50 for older American performance cars. Note that the 0W-40 is called "Mobil 1® With SuperSyn™ Formula 0W-40 European Car Formula", and the description states "Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ 0W-40 is engineered to provide outstanding protection in high-tech European engines. It provides excellent wear protection in high-temperature/hot-running engines". Note also the Saab's current factory oil for the turbo engines is 0W-40.

Conclusion:

Use a full synthetic 0W-40 oil, unless this results in unacceptable oil consumption, in which case use a 10W-60 oil (eg Castrol RS) or a 15W-50 oil (eg Mobil 1).

And now the good news:

You can buy Castrol RS (both 0W-40 and 10W-60) from Castrol Classic Oils (www.castrolclassicoils.com) telephone 01954 231668, for £100 for 16 litres including delivery to your door, if you ask nicely. That's £25/4 litres which beats anything else I can find. Published prices and delivery charges apply to smaller amounts. Castrol's technical people are friendly and helpful on 01793 452222.

I hope you will find this helpful.
 
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