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Car won't start

5K views 9 replies 5 participants last post by  racingsnake 
#1 ·
The other day drove home from work (30 miles) without any problems. About half hour later I need to pop out and car won't start.

You can hear the starter motor turning over but the engine just will not come to life.

There is battery power, electronics come on. I've also attempted to start the car will the headlights on and there is no change in the behaviour. On the dash I notice the battery light stays lit when the car is doing its checks when you turn the key where before it would go off. The other thing I noticed is that when I attempt to start the car the APC gauge doesn't move when previously it would drop down to minimum pressure and back up to its active idle place.

Other than that I'm completely baffled, any ideas what is wrong or things to check?
 
#4 ·
When you turn on the ignition can you hear the fuel pump priming for a few seconds? If not check the fuel pump fuse and relay.

The battery warning light is staying on because the engine has not started and hence the alternator is not charging the battery, your boost guage is not moving because until the engine starts there is insufficient vacuum to operate it and if, like other later Saabs that is driven electrically by the ECU

It might be worth checking the ECU fuse as well, rare but possible to blow and that would prevent starting.

Not familar with these cars particularly, do you have the direct ignition cassette on top of the engine? (it will probably be red) if so these can fail without warning and often have a burnt smell.

Also check as many hoses. wires and connectors under the bonnet that you can see.
 
#5 ·
steverhysjenks,

The usual things which cause complete starting failure wiith the 9000 are the DI casette, ignition switch or crank position sensor, though I'd tend towards the former two.

If it's the DI then replacement is the only option. Unfortunately it's rather expensive, and, unless you're already into 9000s, you're not likely to have one to hand. - Any other 9000 owners that you know near you that you could do a swap to check ?

Ignition switch is also a favourite. You might get temporary relief by fiddling with the wiring harness but realistically it's a replacement as well. Really quite easy though you will need a very small allen key. I think it's a 2mm.

CPS comes up a lot though I've never had any experience personally.

As far as the suggestion that it could be the VSS system. I doubt it since the engine should start, run for a few seconds then die.

Paul @ Kippen.
 
#6 ·
The auto inhibitor switch sprung to my mind, but yesterday when I stupidly left it in 1 it wouldn't start, but then it wouldn't even turn over.

With the ignition switch maybe trying 2-3 times putting in key turning and pulling out again may help, just to get a good connection, as that's basically what it is, specially if you've noticed strange things occurring electrically recently, more so instrument lights dimming and then brightening, the bottom part with the volts/temp/miles/mpg in particular
 
#8 ·
Checked all the fuses and apart from what I posted earlier about the No5 (APC) fuse blowing none of the other have blown.

DSM - I know it sounds daft but how can you tell what the fuel pump sounds like.

When it comes to sounds the only difference I can tell is that the AC fan flap sound is not present now - well I am assuming this is the fan
 
#10 ·
I tend to check the fuel pump by cracking open the fuel line where it connected to the stainless square tube that feeds the injectors, after trying to start the car there should be plenty of stored fuel pressure there and you should get a decent squirt of fuel. If in doubt once you have released the pressure, tighten the pipe, crank the engine for a few seconds and then test again. The presure should be back.

Don't forget to leave enough time for the sprayed fuel to evaporate.

If that works, remove the DI and the plugs, fit the plugs into the DI and sit it upside down on the engine block and connect it up. Now take some bits of wire, strip them back for about three inches and connect the threaded portion of each spark plug to the engine. Then have someone crank the engine over to confirm that you are getting sparks.


Just noticed the date on the original post, did you get anywhere yet?

Richard
 
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