[gundam_007]

Hey all I took your guys advise and replaced my spark plugs and cleaned out the throttle body but Bella( my 92 2.3L 9000T automatic) is still wanting to die when I start up 1st thing in the morning and after she has cooled off ...once warm she runs great...although yesterday I did notice she didnt want to shift while creeping through a 25mph zone.
Do any of you have suggestions??? Where and what kind of spark plug wires should I buy to replace the ones in her know...Remember im in the US. The dealer said that they would cost $133.00 to replace em.....

 

[john]

gundam_007, did you see this recent topic: http://www.saabscene.co.uk/ubb/ultimatebb....ic;f=2;t=002761

Might be applicable to you? Good luck.

 

[billj]

Gundam, I don't think you have plug leads (wires). As far as I know, all '92 9000 turbos should have Direct Ignition (red plate on top of the engine). This is a set of four coils that sit directly on top of the spark plugs - each plug having its own coil.

 

[gundam_007]

Your right BillJ what an idiot .... I will check the valve and see if that was the culprit...I'll keep you all updated.

 

[wherewolfe]

Originally posted by gundam_007:
[qb]Your right BillJ what an idiot     .... I will check the valve and see if that was the culprit...I'll keep you all updated. [/qb][/b]

Hey Gundam:

Sounds like you have checked most bases on the rough idle . Could I suggest: when did you or did you replace the fuel filter? Second... have you pulled the injectors and checked to see if you have blockage? One easy way to check the injectors before pulling is to add some injector cleaner to your tank. Should improve idle somewhat if the injectors are clogged, but longterm you will want to pull, clean, or replace them.

wherewolfe

 

[gundam_007]

fuel pump and filter were replaced by the owner of the lot I bought Bella from. Ihavent checked the injectors but when I brought her home the first thing I did was to add a bottle of fuel system cleaner to her... To check and clean injectors .... Anyone have the step by step procedure for this?? if not you can show me Wherewolfe when I come to your neck of the woods.

 

[gundam_007]

O.k I'm really stumped I set out to clean the AVI valve yesterday ..printed out BillJ's step by step instructions , got all the stuff and went outside ...after getting the large upper hose to the throttle body off I looked to find the AVI well I could not find it anywhere...anyone have an idea where it is located on a 92 9000T 2.3???
I looked at Bill's photo's and my engine at the same angle but nothing is under my throttle body

 

[BurnsSide42]

also check every last vaccume hose That is my issue when it comes to idle still, i have a couple to change still...at start up my idle is ruff for the first 5 minutes, then it settles at 950ish-1000 rpm's.

 

[gundam_007]

the dealer told me that it might be a bad injector or 2 what can I expect this to set me back??? Or is this something that I can check clean and tell myself??
Any help would really be welcomed

 

[johncc]

A good workshop should be able to clean and test the injectors for you. AFAIK they connect each on to pressurised cleaning fluid (instead of fuel), see if it's leaking, and then pulse it and check the spray pattern (which cleans it at the same time as the fluid is pumped through the injector). Then, any bad ones can be replaced. The job itself is quite easy.. no idea how much the injectors would cost. Last time I bought some (for a different car) they were about $50 each, in the UK. You'd be better off finding a good engine shop to do this rather than the dealer, I'd think. If you like to DIY, you could probably take the injectors out yourself, take them to get them checked and cleaned, buy any replacements you need direct from a factor, and then refit yourself.

 

[johncc]

Another possible - again this was on a different car so not sure how it would translate! I checked my injectors approximately by removing them from the manifold, but leaving the fuel pipes etc connected. I duct taped them into some glass milk bottles, resting on the engine, and then got an assistant to crank the engine. You should be able to see if any are leaking or blocked, or if the pattern is way off. Comparing the amount of fuel in the bottles is instructive too. Probably not as scientific as the previous test, and more dangerous too!

Now one of the people that know what they are talking about can tell me whether this will work on a Saab

 

[John Vaughan]

Just as a point of thought; wouldn't a fuel injector or fuel filter problem be present even when the car was at normal operating temperature?
Although I would certainly change the fuel filter as part of preventitive maintanince; I seems to me that Gundam's problem is somewhere in the cold start area rather then fuel supply.
Of course I am not an expert so anyone correct me if they have a better idea.

 

[DaveS]

Gundam, if you find out what's causing this, please post it for us - I've got exactly the same problem.

It starts OK, idles about 1000rpm, then after about 10 seconds, it almost stalls, recovers, then idles at 1200rpm.

As soon as it warms up, it runs fine and idles at 850rpm. I've checked everything you have, including the injectors, and the engine temperature sensor (bolted into the head between cylinders 1 and 2.

I agree with Griffin, but I can't think of anything else which is cold-start related. Anyone?

A few other things to look at shortly are the fuel prepump (air bubbles after standing?) and all the fuel connections (same reason).

I'll post anything positive.

 

[gundam_007]

Hey, I'll keep all of you informed on what the mysterious problem is... I cant wait to crack it and then move on to the next one, got to love older cars.

 

[dawnbooth]

I am probably posting this in the wrong spot as I have a 87 saab 900, however i am having the same problem. In addition it is now really got problems. It will be running and then just quit. At which time it will turn over but not fire. We have put in dry gas, new spark plugs and wires, and a new distiputer cap. Can anyone tell me what to try next. Just to make it more difficult, I am on a very limited budget atm and we are really just learning about the car. (We have only had it about two months) Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

[John Vaughan]

Pull one of the plugs, leave the wire on it, hold it with insulated plyers, have someone turn the engine over and see if you are getting spark.
Have you replaced the rotor? It sounds like it isn't firing and I would suspect the fuel is probably ok. Anyone else want to help on this one?

 

[chucktv]

Which engine in the 900?

 

[wherewolfe]

Originally posted by gundam_007:
[qb]Hey, I'll keep all of you informed on what the mysterious problem is... I cant wait to crack it and then move on to the next one, got to love older cars. [/qb][/b]

Hey Gundam:

My money is still on the injectors. You can remove and clean with gumout or replace. I know where you can get new injectors real cheap.

wherewolfe

 

[gundam_007]

ok if I can get a hold of the Haynes manual out at Barnes and noble I'll take a crack at it...if not I hope BillJ has step by step on his site.

 

[wherewolfe]

Originally posted by gundam_007:
[qb]ok if I can get a hold of the Haynes manual out at Barnes and noble I'll take a crack at it...if not I hope BillJ has step by step on his site. [/qb][/b]

If BillJ doesn't have the step by step, I will provide for you...I've made a mission out of learning about this topic lately.

wherewolfe