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Hi all

(Again)

if the cam chain is noisy,,, is this a sign of impending doom?

what is the actual sound??

the car i looked at had a rumble / whir from the fromt of the head, quite noisy from cold

but reduced in sound when warm.

sounded more like a whiring sound / bearing rumble inside the cylinder head??

is this the sound of a worn chain or something else ??

sorry to post to death but id rather be safe than sorry

matt
 

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It's a fairly high pitched ticking noise, basically it sounds like a badly oiled bike chain if it's running too slack. Generally if your engine is making this kind of ticking noise after a good long run then the chain or guides are finished. However the sound you describe does sound more like you could have some dodgy bearings in the motor. I'm nort totally sure so don't take my ideas as red and try not to lose too much sleep over it.

I wouldn't worry about over-posting, I post 5-6 times a day.
 

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If you haven't driven the car it's very hard to tell....what you need to listen out for is rattling on the over run ie drive the car with the drivers window open and rev the thing quite hard then take your foot off the throttle - if you hear a rattling type noise when you do that the timing chain is knackered - if it just happens when the engine is idling from cold it could be that one or two hydraulic tappets are sticking (using decent new oil eg GTX Magnatex and changing it again after a couple of hundred miles might fix that possibly....) or if it rattles only when you accelerate a baffle may have worked itself loose somewhere in the exhaust system. The problem with this kind of thing is that rattling noises are realy hard to track down as they can 'travel' a long way from the actual problem so you can spend a lot of money changing the wrong thing - eg the timing chain instead of an exhaust box!

However depending on what car you are looking at the drive belts on the left hand side of the engine aren't exactly silent (especialy if you have AC) and obviously the fuel injectors tick away quite happily when the engine is running!!
 

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Matt,
Yes these cam chains are a bit of a nightmare (£1000+ at a main dealer).

I am no expert but I've just been through this on my 9000's. Dave Beddows describes what to listen for very well.

When I was in your situation, I said roughly where I lived on this site and asked for recommendations. The result was I found an "independant" who did one of my 9000's for about £425 and said that the other one was OK for now. I would ask as the others can definatly offer some top advice.

Dave - I must admit I did'nt get on very well with GTX magnetec, I swopped it for fully synthetic after 1000 miles as it seemed to "go off" very quickly, i.e. seemed to get very dark very quickly and get much thinner than it should be.
 

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I have been told by someone not to use magnetec on a turbo car, but I can't remember the reason off the top of my head. I think it might have been something to do with it magnetecing it's self to bits of the turbo one wouldn't wish it to. Anyone got any ideas ??
 

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I was advised by a Saab dealer only to use fully-synthetic oil in my '87 9000T (that year had an oil-cooled turbo). I've followed this advice on every 9000 since, even though the four subsequent ones have had water-cooled turbos. I have used Mobil 1, but currrently use Shell Helix as I can buy it at the same time as filling up with Optimax and put it on my fuel card (nice).

Straying off the point a bit...
 

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My Carly burned the GTX Magnatec oil that ***** ******* (garage I bought it from) filled it with, so when I took it back to them for a 6 month service I insisted on fully synth. Voila, no more puffs of smoke from the exhaust.

Also, Trent Saab had to replace a number of oil seals on my Carly to stop it from leaking. Whether those leaks had been caused by the use of the wrong grade of oil, I dunno. But it's best to err on the side of caution, even if it does cost a few quid more.
 

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To be honest I didn't know what car you had Matt - If you do have a turbo then Magnatex is probably not the way to go - works damn well on normaly aspirated cars though. Have to say I am HUGELY sceptical about the claims of engine oil/petrol companies normaly but having tried the Optimax/Magnatex route on mine it has transformed the car - it idles properly now and everything.......

EDIT: mmmm my car has a bit of an oil leak problem.......engine builders never get round to building their own engines properly (plumbers homes have leaking taps etc etc) so I usualy have a certain amount of fresh oil in the sump! So fully synthetic may be the way to go but having said that if you aren't sure what's in the car at the moment I would still suggest changing the oil after a couple of hundred miles if you put fully synthetic oil in as it's not 100% guarenteed that the new oil you put in will get on with the existing oil.
 
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