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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi my first post

im buying a 9000 87 model turbo sedan, and eventually adding performance parts but to start i wanna make sure im not getting myself into debt with repairs. as far as i can see the engine , turbo exhaust are fine, but the left passsenger window takes a bit to get going. what causes this and is it easy to fix? could it just be from not being used for so long or dusty connectors?, secondly he said the clutch was loose one day all of a sudden but is fine now, is this the slave cyclinder going on me? oh its a manual 5 speed with all the options. one more thing, is it hard to put a new ignition in, just the key part as this one was nearly stolen and the ignition is...sorta wrecked eheh. ill stop now, thanks all

David
 

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Welcome to Saabscene, 9ooodave.

Originally posted by 9ooodave:
[qb]secondly he said the clutch was loose one day all of a sudden but is fine now, is this the slave cyclinder going on me?[/qb][/b]
Sounds like the clutch master cylinder. Not a very hard job and the part isn't terribly expensive. Good idea to renew the flexible hose to the slave cylinder while the system is apart and needs bleeding anyway. While not a frequent problem, this hose is known to fail occasionally and will leave you stranded if it does.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks, allthough all ive got from ppl when i tell then what i am buying is grief, they say parts are hard to get here in australia, another woe was looking at prices for parts and the timing chain seems expensive, is this a part which fails frequently?

any other australians here?

david
 

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my '87 9000 T is a good car, but occasionally things have had to be fixed.. like at the moment, i think maybe the bearing on the power steering pump is failing, and is really noisy.. looking at that tomorrow... otehr than that... no real problems, except that high octane fuel is really recommended in summer here as 45°C outside temps cause alot of high intake temps, which translate into lots of knock with anything more than base boost!
 

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oh.. got a tip for you with the cruise control...

CC by default setup disables APC (APC allows full boost) therefore giving you only 5 or so PSI of boost for going uphills.. there is a vac switch above the driver's footwell connected to the cruise vac line, that switches off APC when cruise has vac in the line (ie accelerating. there is a simple fix for this. if you find the vac hose(s) for cruise around the pedal area, you will then find a "Y" connector. one of these lines disappears up into behind the steering column... disconnect this hose and plug the "Y". this will then allow full boost under cruise control.
 
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