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there are many ways to skin this cat
There has been some success drilling it out in situ
Saab dealers take the head off and spark erode the offending broken stud out (expensive)

do a search it has been discussed many times ...
 

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Comparitively easy job to do, provided access is OK. Flexible drill drives help. In my experience, Ford lumps were a little more prone to this than others (expecially around the water pump!). The job usually results in a smaller bore, replacement bolt and recut thread - unless you are lucky, and the broken stud can be removed - even at this late stage.

HTH
 

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I have a similar problem with the two furthest studs to the right as you look at the engine from the front being sheared. It's now beginning to look pretty grizzly with a fair amount of oil/charring. It's not affecting performance yet but I'm being pretty gentle with it.

One of my jobs for the new year is to get that sorted, and also to get the air distribution flap motors fixed. Mine is stuck on windscreen/feet and it's very irritating. Difficult to demist when I can't get full airflow to the windscreen...

Had a chat to the guys at 2 stroke 2 turbo, they reckon to get both fixed I'm looking at £6-700. Ouch. Never mind, needs to be done and both are out of my DIY league! Will let you know how I get on.
 

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I had one break off flush when I recently did my head.

I was able to drill it and then use a stud extractor. I was lucky, I torqued up the exhaust manifold with the head on the bench and that's when it failed, it would have been very harder had the head been refitted. Not something i'd want have tried in situ.

David.
 

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I had two shear when I was doing my cylinder head gasket, Luckily enough access wasn't a problem once I had the head on the bench.
Grind down any of the stud that is proud, and centre punch it, I used a 2mm pilot drill to make sure it was properly centred, then I run a 6mm drill through. I then tried an "easy out" which worked on one of the studs. The tapping drill for 8mm is 6.8mm but I had to use a 7mm drill on the other stud. I tapped both holes out again and used 8mm screwed rod to make new studs. To give yourself access to the cylinder head in situ you will have a fair amount of space by removing the ex manifold and if pushed the radiator and fan.
 

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If you are going to attempt to drill out the stud in situ I highly recommend getting yourself a centre drill, because of it's rigidity this will enable you to adjust the position of the initial hole to ensure that the hole is as central as possible, as you are probably aware if a hole is off centre and you try to centralize it using a standard drill the flexibility in it causes it to follow the original off centre hole, once you happy that the hole is as central as it can be then continue with increasingly larger standard drill bits, If the stud is a M8 then do not drill any larger than about 6.5mm, If you are using a stud extractor then around 5mm-5.5mm should be adequate. Hope this helps
 

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I've just taken the head of my Aero - for preventative head gasket, chains, guides, lifters, valve stems seals and front crank oil seal renewal - as you do at 120k. Anyway found two broken studs so will drill them out and use an esi-out tool. Done a few before and the key is good drills - not B&Q stuff but from a machine tool supplier.
Once the Aero is done, I've got my 2.3TCSE to do as well!!
 
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