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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all

I've just changed my rear pads and disks for new ATE ones, The question I would like to ask is when you loosen the adjusting screw to the end of its travel to be able to pust the piston back, do you have to then retighten the adjustment screw clockwise after putting the disks and pads back on?
Why I ask is that my handbrake seems to be very spongy and not strong enough to hold the car!

If so at what stage do I re-tighten the adj screw?

Thanks in advance

Tony
 

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just before you put the wheels on !!!

you can adjust it on the ground if you are willing to get down and dirty!!

you shuld adjust it back till it is just catching and take it back a "bh"...
drive it for a while and you may have to adjust them after the pads are bedded in
 

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You can adjust the back brakes any time but need the wheel off the ground and the handbrake off. It will not self adjust as drum brakes do. Using the 4mm allen key, turn in the adjuster until it is tight and the wheel locks up. Then back it off about a quarter turn, the wheel should turn. With new pads this may need to be done again once they have bedded in after a few weeks.

Once both wheels have been done the handbrake can be adjusted so is on after about 3 or 4 clicks.
 

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Make sure that with the hand brake lever down, the lever on the caliper is at its end stop (i.e. fully off). If someone has adjusted the brakes in the past by tightening the cables at the hand brake lever end (i.e. in the car), the lever at the caliper end will hit its end stop before the brakes are hard on.

Then adjust using the 4mm Allen key as described by the chaps above. You may need to readjust, but only once, after the pads have bedded in. If you need to readjust often, then the automatic adjustment mechanism in the caliper has siezed and it's time for a new one.
 

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Adjust the allen screw as Paul and Mark have outlined above but make sure that the cable adjustment is correct. With the handbrake released the lever at the caliper should go almost right back to the stop at the brake off end. There should no more than 15-20 thou clearance between the lever and the stop. If it doesn't go right back the handbrake won't self-adjust. It may not anyway if it's seized but more often than not incorrect cable adjustment is the problem.
 

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IIRC the Saab spec is 1mm, or about 40 thou[/b]
Agreed Mark E, but I find that 20 thou gives me best results. The figured specified is probably so that it's set up with no excess slack in the cable but as long as it's not quite touching the stop it should be OK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks all for your advice.

I re-tighten the adjustment screw now, with about 20-25 thou between the lever and the stop.
Hand brake is much better now, and is on hold at 4 clicks! , which shoul go to about 5 when the disks and pads are bedded in.

Cheers again

Tony
 

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Mark B. noted that frequent hand brake adjustment could be a symptom of the automatic adjusters being goosed. Has anyone tried stripping and fixing them ? Is it possible ? I have a spare 'scrapper' so can afford to do a bit of experimenting.

Paul @ Kippen
 
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