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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
have got a friend with a 9000 CDS 2.0 around 140K miles, non turbo 89 manual non ABS who is suffereing some problems that he's getting to the end of his teather with.

Firstly it failed the MOT with imbalanced brakes (over 40% front brake imbalance one side to the next) Even though he says the car broke absolutely fine with no pulling. He changed discs and pads first and greased all the sliders up and pushed the pistons OK and bled the brakes afterwards. Still the brakes have failed....his braking still feels fine to drive with and he knows the master cylinder has been changed around 3 years and 20K ago. What can he change/check next bare in mind he's on a tight budget.

Secondly with all this rigmoral going on 1st and 2nd gear fail to engage, even when the engine isn't running, every other gear (including reverse) works fine. What and how does he check whats up with it, or is it probable the gearbox is knackered.
 

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The second one is a bit easier than the first... it sounds like the rubber selector coupling has failed- a known trait with early 9000s. It quite easy to replace or you can tie-wrap the two halves together.

Whichever, it involves getting under the car to access it.

As for the first, looking at the schematic the "common point of failure" is the master cylinder, which feeds all 4 calipers. At a guess, I'd say one of the internal seals has failed. I don't know whether you can buy seal kits but as it's brakes I wouldn't risk it. A new master cylinder from Eurocarparts is £92 plus the chancellor's whack...
 

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I had the bushing problem on my C900 once. Found the problem AND fixed it in the middle of nowhere just with the purchase of a couple ramps, and two hose clamps. Actually I MUCH prefer the feel with the hose clamps. It's nearly a solid connection to the gearbox and it gives a very precise, albeit notchy, race car like feel. Great when sporting around the local twisty roads.

BTW speaking of shifters and shifting ... if your synchros ever get too worn to downshift easily (the C900 had issues with worn synchros) you can bypass the synchros by lifting up the clutch between gears on the downshift and with the clutch up revving the engine to the RPM you will be at in the lower gear. Then quickly push the clutch back down and pop it in that gear. I do that any time I skip gears downshifting even in the Viggen. If done properly the gear slides in as though the tranny were brand new. In the case of the Viggen, if done properly it practically sucks the shifter into the gear you're going for. Works on upshifts too if you're quick with your feet. Very old racing technique my friend and I have to use on the old Crossle 55 as it has no synchros. Fun stuff ...

 

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Now I really DO feel old,when double declutching is referred to as "A very old racing technique"
I use it every day of the week,on a truck,and if you do it properly you can dispense with the clutch.
 

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Originally posted by MikeH:
[qb]Now I really DO feel old,when double declutching is referred to as "A very old racing technique"
I use it every day of the week,on a truck,and if you do it properly you can dispense with the clutch.    :rolleyes:        :rolleyes:          [/qb][/b]
You took the words right out of my mouth, tends to work very well when prcticed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Would a Master Cylinder fault cause the uneven braking though. And surely if its that new (only three years and 20K old) it cant fail that quickly. Any other thoughts on what to check with regard to the braking that doesnt cost much. Also where is this bushing on the gearbox that could have perished.
 

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Could there be some crud in one of the brake pipes (or some damage restricting flow) . A 40% mismatch is pretty big and as we can rule out the rotors and pads it doesn't leave a lot.

Failing that.. he says it feels fine braking so could it be a problem with the testing rig at the garage?

As for double de-clutching...I did manage several times during learning to drive to change gears without using the clutch. Several times of my 9000 I have done the gear change and got that "sucking" feel as its gone into gear.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It's a real problem this one. The only route it seems can be taken is to change the master cylinder and brake fluid. And then change the brake calipers. Also can anyone put some more light on the gearbox problem and how to rectify this lack of 1st and second.
 

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Also can anyone put some more light on the gearbox problem and how to rectify this lack of 1st and second[/b]
If you can place the car in any of the other gears (3,4,5,R) and push the lever to the left with little effort, the the rubber joint visible between the engine and the bulkhead has split apart (costs about £18 for an after market one).

As a stop gap it can be tie wrapped back together and is just reachable from above with some contortion.

A piccie of it is here (top left of gearbox)


Andrew
 
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