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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Charged the 9k up yesterday, and started it for a while. Came to this morning to move it back to its original place on the road....and it was completely dead.

I am 99% sure I didnt leave lights etc on!!
Possible causes?

I also have issues with idle speed. Once warmed up I gave it some welly (just to hear that induction roar........!!!) as it dropped to idle it dipped to 500k ish revs stumbled then idled ok. Did this 90% of time.
I know it has a faulty dump valve....but this shouldnt have any effect in neutral?
I did swap the dump valve with another one (not a certain perfect one) and it did the same.
Cpould this be an idle air control thing??
 

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Paul,

I believe the 92 Cs Carlssons were DI/APC with an AMM, so yes, a faulty/leaky dump valve can give you problems as the metered air readings could be incorrect. However a dirty AIC valve as Neil suggests is a more likely culprit.

The battery drain is a tougher one to find. Common causes are sticking boot/door switches causing lights to remain on. Other possibilities include a faulty alarm unit (if fitted) and sticking relays.
 

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How old is your battery? When it's dead, it wouldn't help if you charge it. It will be dying again, and again. You can let test it in garage - they'll tell you about condition of the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The battery is relatively new (8 months ish).
Got back from work today, and car started first crank. (after charging yestererday morning and running during day yesterday).Left it running as I had a coffee....went back out and completely dead. No battery left at all.
From this I can forget sticking switches etc?Does this help any?!
Cheers again
 

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Check battery voltage across terminals when engine is running...it should be about 14.4 volts. If it is around 12 volts then alternator is duff. If the rectifier in the alternator fails it allows reverse flow to earth and you get flat batteries.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Will do that over next couple of days - sounds like a possibility. I have posted before about electrical gremlins : occasionally the car wouldn't start...dash lights etc came on, but nothing happened when you turned the key - almost like the immobiliser was activated. The alarm is disconnected (by shoving a screw driver through the key in the top and turning off) could this be a possibility?How easy is it to disconnect an alarm properly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just charged the car up. With battery installed but car off, it reads 13volts. With engine running, the meter is initially saying 12.5v at first idle, but as soon as you press the throttle..the meter says 14.4v. It also says 14.4v once it is idling after revving.
How can I check clicking relays?...any stuck lights i would obviously see in the dark?or are there hidden ones?!
 

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Hi Paul,

Have only just got on to this thread.

I'm having a similar sort of problem. One minute all fine, starts ok, charges fine, battery fine etc. Next time turn the key and click, click , click etc. Sometimes it ends up turning over after holding the key in the start position for a while other times it takes several turns of the key and much clicking before it turns over.

Just recently it's got to be more than a joke, the wife got stranded and took a taxi. Oops!

So, to end, it seems the positive terminal had a very slight resistance to it. Some emery paper was used to clean up the post and inside the terminal and the car immediatly turned over far better than it has in months. Also the charging voltage is far higher than it has ever been. Watch this space...

Nick.

PS. If you have a very good voltmeter, try touching a prod to the centre of the battery post and the other to the terminal. There should be no voltage, like less than 0.0001 volt. Yes that's low. If it's much higher try cleaning up the terminals.
Most meters won't read this accurately but mines from work and rather good (and calibrated). Prior to cleaning up the terminal I had a 0.15 volt drop, which doesn't sound much but the car was only drawing around 4 amps. At starting it was 277 amps and the volt drop would have been much larger, like most of the battery voltage if I'm thinking correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I kept the car running, and saw a slight voltage drop over time. Could this indicate the alternator?
Nick - I've cleaned the connectors and ist still happening....
my multimeter is an inexpensive one....a silly question how can i test for amp drop?what do I need to hook up to?and what setting do I need my multimeter on?! I really do not like electronics!
 

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To check for amps drain you need to connect an ammeter in line. Remove one of the battery terminals. Connect one lead from the ammeter to the battery terminal and the other to the disconnected lead. Make sure it's the right way round and read the amps flowing. There will be some permanent amps for clock, immobiliser etc.

If you have a good battery and it's going flat overnight you would expect a reading of 3 or 4 amps. Based on a 65 amp.hour battery losing half its charge.

Beware that most multimeters don't have the capacity to read much in the way of amps. You need a DC ammeter that can read up to 20 amps at least to be on the safe side.

If you get a high reading pull some fuses until it drops, then find out what's served by that fuse and check it. May be more than one fuse/fault.
 

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I kept the car running, and saw a slight voltage drop over time. Could this indicate the alternator?
Not particularly, the alternator will reduce the charging voltage as the battery looks as though it's charged fully. So it would seem yours is OK. As you stated earlier the initial charging voltage was 14.4v dropping to 13.99 after 30 mins, this is fine.

Nick - I've cleaned the connectors and ist still happening....
Ahh, ok then, we may as well assume this isn't your fault. Although another dodgy connection say at the starter motor could be a possiblility.

my multimeter is an inexpensive one....a silly question how can i test for amp drop?what do I need to hook up to?and what setting do I need my multimeter on?! I really do not like electronics!
Sgould has put it nicely in his reply, but I would say from your earlier posts (if I'm reading them right) that you don't have a battery problem.
Am I right in saying that sometimes it will fail to start almost immediately after being run for some while? Do you get panel lights showing, I think so from your previous post, but do they dim when trying to start? If they do this might indicate that the starter motor is engaged and trying to turn the engine over. I presume the clicking you are hearing is the same as mine. But do you get this every time it fails to start or is there just a deathly silence when you try to start?

Sorry for all the questions, but I'm just trying to understand your symptoms.

Nick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Nick-when the car wouldnt start it was always after a run. The lights would come on, but the engine wouldnt turn. I cant remember the lights dimming. It didnt always do it, and would always atart eventually. I often found turning headlights off etc would help it start. I can't remember hearing a clicking when I tried to start it.
Thanks again for the help, and im sorry I cant remember exactly what happened - the car has been off the road for 4 months and my memory ios shocking! I will try to find some of my old posts about it.
 

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If the starter motor isn't trying to turn, the panel lights are brightly lit (suggesting the battery's giving a good supply) and you aren't even hearing the clicking of the solenoid (in the starter motor) or any other relays clicking then I think that either the solenoid of the starter motor is intermittently not picking up to supply the high current feed to the starter motor windings or that the current to the solenoid from your ignition key is weak (perhaps the ignition key contacts are intermittently high resistance).

To eliminate the last one, when the car won't start, you can run a wire from the battery positive to the small wire terminal on the starter motor. This will pick the starter solenoid and the motor should turn. If it doesn't the starter motor could either be renewed or refubished.

Nick.
 

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The last time I had a hot start problem it was the starter motor itself. The solenoid was working but the starter wasn't turning when hot. Battery was fine - tried a new one and it didn't change the starting problem.

Started fine when cold. When hot I got a click and the dash lights dimmed.

Found that the problem was that the starter motor brushes had worn down and that the whole area was full of dirty slightly greasy swarf. When I cleaned it up (and put in new brushes) it was fine. I think what was happening was that the heat softened the "grease" and all the bits of swarf touched and shorted out the current to the motor.
 
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