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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
what is the effect of running an auto with too much auto transmission fluid in the box?
When cold, it is above the hot max level.
I havn't got round to changing the auto fluid since I bought the 9000 5 months ago. I believe you need a special tool to open the drain plug? It does seem a little sluggish, and wondered if the fluid level could have caused it, or is that just a trait of the automatic? I've never had one before.
 

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You shouldn't be checking auto gearbox levels with the engine cold and the engine off. Levels should be checked with the engine at full working temperature with the engine running, soon after working the stick through the D & R positions. The full description of how to do it is in the owner's handbook (well it is in my 9-5 handbook anyway). I think there's a well known acronym for this
 

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I've been learning about autos since I bought a '96 CSE auto last week. I did the drain, refill and filter change yesterday.

The only "special tool" needed is an 8mm Allen key. I used an 8mm hex drive bit from my socket set.

As sgould says, there is a procedure for checking the level. My '96 handbook says to drive the car until the transmission has reached working temperature (80 degrees), then put it in park with the engine still idling and check the level. Additionally, Haynes says to put it in "D" for 15 seconds, then "R" for 15 seconds, then "P" and check the level, again with the engine still idling.

The distance between Min and Max represents about 0.5 litres.
 

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Like Bill says no special tool for the drain plug. When fluid is hot it expands so level will be higher but as others have said you need to check the level as indicated (it can be done cold, thats what the cold marks on the dipstick are for but engine should be running and D, R, P procedure followed to get fluid into all the hydraulics).
Filters cost a fortune from Saab - I've now found the ZF part numbers for all the auto box parts (also schematic of how it fits together) so will try ZF parts stockists next time. Very important to be as clean as possible when checking fluid level and changing it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
cheers for that chaps, I had no idea that the engine had to be running, and a specific R,D,P selection was needed!

I think I will get a £15 filter from that eurocom place, and buy an 8mm allen key attachment for my socket set.
 

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Adrian,
Have a 9000 T Auto 'resting' because the auto box is faulty.....have been looking for some technical info but in vain! Interesting to note that you have info which would be useful in rebuilding this box....any chance of posting this for reference?
Also, you do not need to buy new oil filter, it can be cleaned and used again...just do it carefully without damaging the mesh!
 

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A couple of points on this one.
Although the filter can be cleaned you need to be very careful that you don't transfer any 'bits' to the wrong side of the filter when doing so. I prefer to change it.

I purchased a filter from Euro Car Parts. It doesn't come with the 'O' ring. ( neither does it from Saab I think ). ECP didn't stock the 'O' ring so I had to go to Saab for it.

I e-mailed ECP to tell them and they replied that either: they didn't know there was an 'O' ring, or they thought it came with it. ( I forget which ). This was some while ago so they may have resolved it by now; they said they would.
 

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The Saab filter does come with two O-rings (one for the cover) and a large aluminium washer, the purpose of which no-one has been able to explain to me.

When I looked on ECP, they stock the O-rings separately now, so at least they didn't totally ignore you. However, I expected the O-rings to come with it as they do from Saab, so I'll bear that in mind in future, as I won't be shelling out to a Saab dealer for it in future.
 

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Gadgeteer,
Sure thing ....but as yet am still undecided whether to fix the car or get rid of it.....along with the auto tranny rebuild, it also needs head gasket/timing chains, etc. and the wife is still fuming at loss of quality time over my recently completed 9K CSE project which took quite some time , I will notify you if project becomes feasable!
 

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Dont want to show off or anything - but my ATF fluid is soooo clean that I can't make out where it comes to on the dipstick.

I'll wait til its stone cold and see if it makes the meniscus more obvious.
 

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Originally posted by gadgeteer:
[qb]Dont want to show off or anything - but my ATF fluid is soooo clean that I can't make out where it comes to on the dipstick[/qb][/b]
Old trick is to put some chalk on the end of the dipstick after drying it and then dip again,perfect results every time
 

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Gadgeteer,

Mines so clean too. If you use the light right, you can clearly see where the level is by the reflection off the wet part of the dipstick.

Don't forget folks, that an gearbox oil drain doesn't remove all the oil. The best way for a full change is to use a 'flush' system, via a clutch/gearbox specialist. This uses some 12 litres to replace the 8 litres of oil, including 4 litres to flush unit.

Definately important to change auto box oil at regular intervals if you want longlevity of box!
 
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